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Routes in The Main Wall
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"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch Duke Dude, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull run direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chartreuse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dry Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enabler, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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House Made of Dawn S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muffin Man T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nero's Fiddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PTS Crack (The Patridge Town Send) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snaking the Drain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strands un Dunn T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer 8/2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,427 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on May 10, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
from Preisendorfer - "The best line there in my opinion is Fireside a two pitch 5.10 that exits out the right side of cave. The best way to climb this route is to bivy in the cave and have your belayer drinking coffee in their bunny slippers while you climb up and left [sic -right] from the fire ring. As soon as you break out of the first roof you gain an amazing hand crack that you follow to the top. Watch for a OLD pin that was probably the bail anchor from the 1920's era exploration. I believe that Lincoln O'Brien and crew traversed in from the right to get there because I'm pretty sure he didn't crank out the roof!"
See Preisendorfer's Topo #3 from the IME New Route Book.
Location
The very right hand edge of the big overhangs on the right hand side of the Main Wall. Starts right of the fire ring.
Protection
Trad rack with lots of hand sized cams. Two raps with a single rope will get you down. There is a communal bolted rap/lower anchor up and a little to the right. Please use it and avoid topping out so the top of the cliff doesn't get beaten up. There is a lower anchor directly below, beneath the bulge, that will get you to the ground.
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