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 ADVANCED
Eavesdown Docks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Firefly 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,015
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013

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Perin Blanchard near the crux on Firefly....

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

70m Rope Required



A steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section).

From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top ledge, and from there it's another ten feet or so to the chains.

Note that at the tenth bolt you keep heading up and slightly right rather than left onto The Alliance.

70m Rope Required


Location 

The right of two lines that are bracketed by large trees at the tallest part of the wall. Firefly starts over a squarish indentation; the first bolt is below a small roof, the second bolt is just below a ledge with a bit of a scoop in the back, which is followed by a steep section.

Protection 

14 bolts, chain anchors. A two-foot sling is recommended for the bolt just below the upper headwall; longer draws on some of the bolts will help mitigate rope drag.


Photos of Firefly Slideshow Add Photo
DK showing how much exposure there is on <a href='/v/firefly/108326384'>Firefly</a>.
DK showing how much exposure there is on [[1083263...

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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Arguably the best 5.10c in the canyon.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. My favorite 10 I've done in AF. I thought that the anchors would make more sense moved about 3 feet left. The last part of the route calls for some sketchy traversing on holds that are ready to blow (and did several times!). Felt a little out of character from the rest of the route.
By Crazymonkey
Sep 25, 2014

Awesome route! Definately feel exposed pulling the final roof, the holds are all there, but is your endurance? Amazing view from the chains