Hard start (crux is the first few moves).
Right of Sissyboyz-8
Jul 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jerry,can you fill out your description of this route a bit more? How many bolts are on this climb? Are there any run-out sections? How did you find the protection for the crux? This is one of my favorite routes on The Ridgeline, probably because there are many alternative ways of getting past the "hard" spot. Did you mantle this move, or are you long enough to reach the ledge at the bolt in one good stretch? I'm thinking here that climbers under 5'9" may find themselves distinctly disadvantaged.
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hard start to easier climbing (5.8ish) above. I believe there are around 8 bolts + chains. No need for additional pro. On windy days, the tree may try to feel you up.
Jul 1, 2009
I know the above questions from Desicon are old, but I thought this info would be useful anyway... I don't think this climb is height dependent at all. If you start directly under the first bolt it's VERY balancy, but if you choose your feet carefully you're able to get your weight over them, so there's time to think and decide what to use. I'm 5'3" and my partner, who's 5'10", was able to do it in one move less than me, but I don't think the move I added was at the grade.
|By Jerry Cagle|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 10, 2012
I led this again today after quite a few years, and I swear it's gotta be harder than .10a... I think Joe is correct - more like .10c even. It's only a couple of moves, but the feet are not so hot. Emily is on target too, my wife followed it, and she's an even 5 feet.
|By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady|
Apr 20, 2013
The big tree that used to menace this climb is now laying down at the bottom of the cliff (no more feeling up, thankfully). I think this climb is accurately rated at 10a, with the crux being below the first bolt. Once you've cleared the thin balancing act at the start, everything else is in 5.9 range.