Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: 1st pitch Pontier and Pon, full route, Guerrieri and Brown.
Page Views: 3,446 total · 13/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


49 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is the 2nd farthest left bolted route on the Ironsides. According to the Gillett guidebook, it was originally bolted as Gypsies in the Palace, which is the 5.8 section up to the first anchors. It was finished by a later party to the top of the wall. As with the other routes on this wall, the bolts are sparse but where you need them. Bring 2 ropes or rap to the mid-anchors, approximately 150 feet total.

The first "pitch" takes you up the low angled slab until the overlap. This is slightly run out 5.8. A few small pieces can be placed to relieve stress.

Pull up onto the hanging headwall on thin holds 5.10, and fire up through the crux (10c) on underclings and crimps (height helps). I climbed this prior to the guidebook coming out and recorded it in my notes as being a little harder.

Protection Suggest change

12 bolts (optional green Alien). You can tuck a few small pieces in the bottom section.

Photos

loading