A nice crag very close to the road with short but fun sport routes in the 5.7-5.12 range, plus some cool bouldering on the way in to boot. Scattered pine trees give shade when needed but most routes appear to stay in the sun most of the day. Crag walls face west/southwest. Oak Creek runs nearby if you need to cool down on the way out...but I've heard you should not drink the water!
This area is described in the Red Lizard II guide, although I have never personally looked at it; furthermore, it is apparently out of date as many new routes have been added.
Take the 89A just north of Sedona into Oak Creek Canyon (if you are coming from the south, that means drive through Sedona until you come to the major turnabout that divides uptown and downtown; turn right toward uptown).
Somewhere within 1 mile from the uptown district, look for a small spa house called Therapy on the Rocks. The parking area is actually across the road and just south of this business. If you find yourself at Slide Rock State Park, you have gone too far.
PLEASE DO NOT CROSS PRIVATE PROPERTY. Cross the highway, angling south of the parking pullout as you do so. Follow the guard rail to a trail and some scrambling well south of private property. Cross the creek and continue on the trail a short distance up the hill, meandering through giant sandstone boulders amid trees as you approach the crag.
Located on the Southwest facing portion of the cliff this is the furthest right hand route. Climb past five or six clips through a small roof to a nice two bolt rap anchor. The anchor is located just below a small ledge which can be used to access the anchors on most of the routes on this cliff....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Special note: be on alert for bee hives in this area during the warm months, especially spring. Please see my beta pic posted here that says "Bee alert!" for a description of an active hive right next to a wall (as of spring 08). This hive was so astonishingly quiet we couldn't even hear it from 30 feet away; please avoid this particular wall and keep your eyes peeled everywhere else as you enjoy your day.
Nice photo. When the water is too high - This area can also be approached via a trail from above.
To get there: Travel south on 179 (after the "Y" at 89a) take first left after bridge onto Schnebly Hill Rd. and follow till pavement ends at Huckaby trailhead. About 15 min hike on this trail will take you to a view of UPtown Sedona, take a left fork at far north end of cliff where small trail descends down a gully and to the base.
Most of these routes were put up by Davis Pastor with 1/2" x 4" Rawl bolts with Fixe bolt hangers & ring anchors.
Thanks & best wishes David whever you are in Colorado ~ Kirra
NEW ACCESS! Therapy on the Rocks has No Trespassing signs on the trail now. Please respect No Trespassing Signs!
To access the Anvil Boulders, you can still park in the pull out described above but now you must walk a couple hundred yards south, toward Sedona, along the guard rail to pick up another trail that can be followed down to the creek past some steep scrambling. Please do not enter any private property and keep a low profile so we can continue using this new access.