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By Mike Howard
Feb 11, 2011
Beta from CLIMBING MAGAZINE March 2011
Comale Upper Walls
Tim’s Thumb – Furthest north formation with pointy summit.
Family Day 5.12a *** Climbs steep orange face behind big tree to black arête above. FA: Tim Naylor, Jay Foley, Donna and Milan.
The Block - Middle formation, routes listed left to right.
Aaron’s Route 5.8 ** Start on right side of dead tree and after 4th bolt angle up left and over bulge to left facing corner. 5 bolts. FA: Gina Hawryluk, Dan Greenwald.
Nicole’s Corner 5.10a *** Start 10 feet right of dead tree. Crux move is right off the ground and can be protected with small gear or avoided by starting by dead tree and traversing to first bolt, which keeps the route at 5.9. 6 bolts. FA: Nicole Heckmann, Dan Greenwald.
Shadow Caster 5.10c ** Start by large tree on left side of roofs and climb over two roofs. In the shade all day! 5 bolts. FA: Scott Resnick, Dan Greenwald.
Fire Wall – Large formation above lower walls, routes listed left to right.
E-Z Rider 5.10a ** Left most route on fire wall. Starts 20 feet left of DHMR.
High first bolt that is easily reached from left side. 5 bolts. FA: Tim Naylor, Jay Foley.
Dennis Hopper Memorial Route 5.8 PG13 ** Starts 8 feet left of In Descent. A bolted bouldery start leads to a ledge and nice double crack system capped by a small roof above. Exit left here and then continue up crack above. Gear – 2 bolts plus tiny wires, small cams, and three #3 camalots. FA: Jay Foley, Tim Naylor.
5.12a TR Top rope face in between DHMR and In Decent via In Decent’s anchor.
In Decent 5.9 *** Start 8 feet right of DHMR. For 5.9 grade stay right of bolts as the route steepens about halfway or stay left here and earn 5.10d. 8 bolts. FA: Jay Foley, Carlos Abeyta, Vali Valus.
The Anvil 5.11a *** Start 15 feet left of leftmost black streak (Fiyo). Climb up over bulge and then up to “hanging” anvil. 6 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Gina Hawryluk.
Fiyo (aka Catch a Fire) 5.11d *** Climbs left most black streak. A bouldery start leads to easier but STEEP climbing above. 5 bolts. FA: Kevin Ormerod, Jay Foley.
Still Smokin’ 5.10d ** Starts by dead tree and just left of Reignite and climbs up over bulges. 6 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Gina Hawryluk.
Reignite 5.11d *** Climbs left side of middle black streak. 7 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Jay Foley, Kevin Ormerod.
Burnt 5.11c **** Climbs right side of middle black streak. 8 bolts. FA: Cliff Reed, Jay Foley.
Toast 5.11d *** Follow blonde streak left of right most black streak. 7 bolts. FA: Jay Foley.
Fire Walker 5.11b *** Climb right side of right most black streak. 7 bolts. FA: Spike Lynch, Jay Foley, Dan Greenwald.
The Egg 5.11a ** Climb right of right most black streak over several roofs. 8 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Gina Hawryluk.
Prescribed Burn 5.10b ** Climb left side of pillar to beautiful face. 7 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Jay Foley.
Kindling 5.10a * Climb up steep face to bulge half way up and step left and then back right over bulge and then continue up and right to anchors. 7 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald, Gina Hawryluk.
By tim naylor
Feb 12, 2011
|Thanks for all the excellent routes here, well thought out clips, nice and clean, just a great little crag.|
By Chris Wallwork
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 27, 2012
|Name of route under Dennis Hopper Memorial Route is Hopper’s Face (the 5.12a*)|
Oct 26, 2012
|I left some gear here a couple of weeks ago--cams and aliens, so if someone finds them, I'd be MOST appreciative!|
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