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Fire Starter 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,546
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 8, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Durf grunting and swearing up the firestarter. Ada...


The crux is the bottom 15 feet. Above this, there are enough "milker" holds to keep it mellow. If these holds weren't there, the route would be hard 5.10 The bottom looks easy, but is quite surprising. Lower off slings around a tree.


This is the furthest right of the Burner offwidths.


#5-#6 BD camalots, #4.5, camalot.

Photos of Fire Starter Slideshow Add Photo
The initial move off the deck. Hard.
The initial move off the deck. Hard.
Good times once your up to the good feet
Good times once your up to the good feet
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By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 12, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

thanks T.A. for the posted info and great picks A.C.

i've been spying those morsels for awhile...thought we could pull it off quickly tonight and got up there at about 4:15 thinking we could TR both lines...
boy, we were wrong...
we didn't epic, but Firestarter sure was a grunt, even on TR...
it just is...a grunt.
I really enjoyed it and can't wait to go back for the Burner and even the other left lines...we approached from the left (instead of from Bong Eater) so we got to check them out;
sweet sweet looking chimney...
and the other 10d looks pretty good too!

burner looks great!
firestarter was great (but one of the harder .9's,
I mean 9+'s :)
I really want to spray the beta on how we finally got the move off the deck but...that wouldn't be much fun...firestarter was pretty fun

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 12, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

oh yeah...

the firestarter we did was only about 70-80ft.
not 100.

plenty of rope

By Michael Buchanan
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

What a sweet route! Finally got to use that #6. Can get hexes in the crack above the tree at the top. Bottom is a thinker... I agree with Glen, the route is not 100 ft, more like 80. Not a 9+ though. Once the beta is known it is a cruiser (in off-width terms).

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

i stood on the bottom foot edge trying to figure out the opening move, and was truly stumped. It wasn't until my belayer gave me the advice to "start grunting!" that I finally figured out the beta.

Grunt and you will succeed.

1 bd #5, 1 #6, 2 #4's, 2 #3's, 1 #2, and a small cam up high. the #6 is optional. this gear beta is for sewing it up from all the decent stances with a piece every body length or so.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Oct 23, 2011

I went up to Firestarter hoping to hone, or rather establish, my offwidth technique. That move off the deck is super awful. No idea how to do it. Once you clear the first 10 feet its fun and easy the rest of the way. Placed(in order) #5 camalot, #2 camalot, #4 camalot, #3 camalot. Only 4 pieces is all as the last 15 feet is easy ground. I guess the #6 could fit somewhere but I didn't need it. Lower off fixed slings around a small tree right of the big mahogony.

By Alex Baker
Feb 18, 2012

The first 5 feet of this thing felt way harder than anything on the burner to me. What am I missing?

By Ben Folsom
Feb 19, 2012

That's what I thought until figuring out the correct sequence which isn't super logical, but it works well.