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Fire Point 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry, 1984
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The best part of the route. The very exposed aret...

Description 

This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.

Climb an unprotected start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.

"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."

Location 

Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.

Protection 

What pro?

I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.


Photos of Fire Point Slideshow Add Photo
Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loose pancakes.
BETA PHOTO: Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loos...

Comments on Fire Point Add Comment
Show which comments
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010

Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers!
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
May 1, 2011

The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 6, 2011

The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart.
By GWB
Apr 8, 2012

Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch.
By s f
From: GA/CO
Apr 9, 2012

I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO.