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BETA PHOTO: Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loos...
This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.
Climb an unprotected start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.
"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."
Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.
I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.
BETA PHOTO: The best part of the route. The very exposed aret...
|By Coz Teplitz|
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010
Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers!
From: Flat Place, NC
May 1, 2011
The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 6, 2011
The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart.
Apr 8, 2012
Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch.
|By s f|
Apr 9, 2012
I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO.