Fire on the Mountain
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BETA PHOTO: Fire on the Mountain.
This route is an absolute classic and should not be missed! There is a little bit of bad rock on the last pitch but not enough to detract from the fun. The route is continually interesting and well protected. The third pitch is the crux, but if you are short, it could be the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....
The route starts a few feet up and left from where the trail hits the rock. This is the rightmost of 3 bolt lines, although the other 2 seem like worthy alternates to the first pitch.
13 draws and something for the anchors....
Headed for the crux of pitch 2.
|Comments on Fire on the Mountain
|By Mike Lane|
From: Centennial, CO
Sep 8, 2011
FA: Double D and Gabe R.
The Oxyoke fire had begun that day, but those of us in the valley that day had no idea until Todd and Gabe started yelling about it to us from P3 or 4. It looked pretty close, enough for us to pack up and skedattle.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 19, 2012
I'm not sure who climbed the FA, but the day Tod, DD, and I rapped down and placed first bolts on the last pitch, the climb was named. I called the fire into the authorities from atop the climb, but they may have already been informed. That was a momentous first day at the head for me, and I would not return to climb all three pitches from the bottom with Tod for two years (long after the FA was done).
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 6, 2012
On the second rappel, you can make it to the tree anchors if you have a 70m. This eliminates one short rap.
On the ascent, I recommend heading past the tree belays to belay at the headwall for the second pitch.
Third pitch is amazing. Don't miss it.