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 ADVANCED
Trojan Bunny Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruise Collector, The S 
Bucket List, The T,S 
Dog Will Hunt S 
Europithacus S 
Fire On The Mountain T,S 
Lick My Plate T,S 
Pondemonium T,S 
Sonata T 
Streatch T,S 
Temptation Arete S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fire On The Mountain 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, September, 2000
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 6, 2001

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Benny Randolf sends the route.

Description 

Fire On The Mountain is situated on the Leatherface plate of The Trojan Bunny Buttress, at the far West end of TBB. It starts in a corner looking up the slab with a small move over an overhang at 10 feet and then enters a shallow dihedral with a 10 foot section of thin crack. Another roof move at the end of the crack, and the crux at 5.11c, will exit the dihedral. 30 feet of slab/seam climbing puts you at the anchor. The last move before the anchor is a bit spooky; reach right and come back left for the anchor clip. The crack in the lower half has been done on bolts (2) and with a few trad pieces, and it felt to me less committing on trad since it was possible to get in several more pieces. Very thin gear saves the pods for the hands. This route was surprisingly strenuous, largely because the dihedral overhags enough to keep you on your arms the whole way. Two stars for the climbing and the excellent quality rock.

Protection 

QDs and/or a few pieces of thin crack gear. This 70 foot route needs 8-10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

Awesome route!! Hard clip, a little scary I didn't have any gear to place. Great moves to gain the slab.
By Lizzy Scully
From: Lyons, Colorado
Sep 18, 2011

Why are there bolts at the bottom of this route where there is a splitter crack?! They are unnecessary.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Nice stone and climbing on the lower section, harder than it looks as it is just beyond vertical. Lower section was pretty reachy, the exit move felt heinously scrunchy. An equal-opportunity sort of route.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Responding to previous poster: the sad irony is that the bottom half is better protected with gear than with the bolts. You know the bolting job isn't the greatest when the FA says that he found climbing it on gear to be less committing....