Fire in the Sky 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | JJ Schlick |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006 |
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JJ at the crux on the FA.
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Description A long mixed route with good exposure once you break the tree line. Start up a steep crack on the north part of the main wall. Once the crack ends head right to a water runnel and a medium cam placement. Move straight up to the bolt and climb the left side of the blunt arete for four bolts (crux just after the second bolt). At the last bolt turn the corner to the right side and climb steep jugs and thin cracks to the top. The top is kind of hollow, so you may want to be fairly comfortable at this grade and have a decent head. The gear looks bomber... just wouldn't want to have to test it...
Location East side, roughly 80 feet past "Air"
Protection a set of wires small to large and a set of cams small to medium (#1 camalot) should do it plus some long runners to cut down on rope drag. Two bolts with chains at top. Best to belay from the top and then rap the route. Much easier to enjoy the view a bit.
Dave Groth wasting no time on the second ascent- c...
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DG and the river, and finishing up the crux sectio...
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DG in the hollowland
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BETA PHOTO: View of the start.
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Matt coming up the final awesome jug haul on Fire ...
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| Comments on Fire in the Sky |
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By Corey Morris
From: Ali Al Salem, Kuwait
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10-
| Great route JJ. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.10-
| Amazing Route! If you haven't been on this route, you're missing out on one of Wisconsin's finest and most exposed! |
By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10-
| I thought this route was a lot of fun. A bit overhanging through the bolted and top sections, great exposure. The only problem with the climb is the dirty and awkward first 10 feet. The rest is great! Definitely recommended. |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 22, 2010
rating: 5.9
| Classic, albeit probably more like 5.9. Cool holds up top! |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.10-
| The top section was my favorite! Your just to strong now to notice any easy 5.10 ;) |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.9
| I thought the first 10 feet was pretty good... good finger locks into a large sidepull take you up onto the awfully dirty/lichen covered slab. The top is certainly airy and quite fun. Great route and good gear all the way through... plus bolts. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a
| Fantastic route JJ! Can't believe I hadn't done this until now. |
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