Fire Fly  5.8

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Marc Volland - July 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Osprey on Jan 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A good little line that can be climbed while walking off any of the Five Open Book routes. The base of the climb is on a large grassy ledge about 50 ft. down from the granite scramble with the rap rings on it.

The crux is a ten foot section just past the first bolt. After that the route cuts right and pleasantly climbs up easy face holds, passing over a grassy terrace before gaining the anchor. Bolts are about every 20 ft. or so.

Sunny in the Winter and scorching in the Summer.

Location 

This route is on the far left side of the Five Open Books area. It is on the large ledge left and up from Mungenella. Left of the forgotten classic Antique and Tucker Tech's route Jughead. Look for a large triangular shaped slab with a copper streak on the cliff just to its right. Fire Fly starts up this copper streak. The first bolt is about 20 feet up.

Protection 

Lead this climb with five quick draws. There is a two bolt rap anchor at the top and can just barely be rappelled with one 70m rope.