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 ADVANCED
Five Open Books
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caverns, The T 
Commitment T 
Fire Fly S 
Hanging Teeth T 
Jughead T 
Munginella T 
Selaginella T 
Surprise, The T 
Try Again Ledge T 
Werner's Ant Trees T 
Work Around the Skirt S 

Fire Fly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Marc Volland - July 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: Osprey on Jan 17, 2010

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Description 

A good little line that can be climbed while walking off any of the Five Open Book routes. The base of the climb is on a large grassy ledge about 50 ft. down from the granite scramble with the rap rings on it.

The crux is a ten foot section just past the first bolt. After that the route cuts right and pleasantly climbs up easy face holds, passing over a grassy terrace before gaining the anchor. Bolts are about every 20 ft. or so.

Sunny in the Winter and scorching in the Summer.

Location 

This route is on the far left side of the Five Open Books area. It is on the large ledge left and up from Mungenella. Left of the forgotten classic Antique and Tucker Tech's route Jughead. Look for a large triangular shaped slab with a copper streak on the cliff just to its right. Fire Fly starts up this copper streak. The first bolt is about 20 feet up.

Protection 

Lead this climb with five quick draws. There is a two bolt rap anchor at the top and can just barely be rappelled with one 70m rope.


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By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 5, 2010

You can place a small alien between the belay and the first bolt if you are concerned about safety while climbing above a ledge. The ledge is about 15ft. wide but there is a 50ft. drop to the true base of the cliff.