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Fire Crags

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bent Brain 
Black Crack 
Europe Revisited 
Face the Seam 
Finger Fit 
Grib Dat Hole 
Jensen's Jugs 
Movin' Out 
Short Shot 
Tester 

Fire Crags 


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Location: 34.493, -119.793 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,813
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The shorter, less difficult left side of the Upper...

Description 

The Fire Crags consist of two boulders that were discovered after the Painted Cave fire swept through the area in late June of 1990, uncovering them from the surrounding chaparral. Randy Judycki established it first as a TR area until it cleaned up. He enlisted the help of Santa Barbara local Mike Colee (long "o", long "e") to establish most of the lead routes in 1992. "It was a mess to clean up," Colee remembers.

"I spent much of my time the first two years building the trail and cleaning the routes," recalls Judycki. "Since the rock is soft sandstone and it went through a very hot fire, [it] was cleaned extensively so no large blocks would fall on people".

There are more than a dozen sport routes, the longest (and best) about 50 feet in length. It's easy to knock out all or most of the routes in a half day. Bring about 8 draws and a camera - the view is great!

Randy currently serves as the Outdoor Education Director for the Dunn School in Los Olivos.

The route numbers correspond with the following topo:



Upper/Burnt Boulder
16. Europe Revisited (5.6) - 2 bolts to anchor, 20'.
17. Tester (5.9) - 3 bolts to anchor (shared with Europe Revisited), 30'.
18. Short Shot (5.8) - 3 bolts to anchor, 30'.
19. Bent Brain (5.8) - 4 bolts to anchor, 40'.
20. Jensen's Jugs (5.10b) - 4 bolts to anchor, 50'.
21. Movin' Out (5.11b/c) - 5 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped holds.
22. Grib Dat Hole (5.11a) - 6 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped.
23. Finger Fit (5.11b) - 5 bolts.
24. Face the Seam (5.10a) - 3 bolts to anchor, 35'.
25. Black Crack (5.9+) - 4 bolts to anchor, 35'.

Lower/Cave Boulder
26. Quick Crank (5.10+) - Don't bother.
27. Screaming Knee Knee (5.11c) - 3 bolts.
28. Flaccidily Flexing Forearms (5.11d) - 3 bolts.
29. Crack It Up (5.9) - Long boulder problem.


Getting There 

From Santa Barbara, take Hwy 154 (San Marcos Pass) toward Santa Ynez; turn right at Painted Cave Road, and head up the road for about 1/2 mile to a hairpin turn with a pull-out on the left. Park here. Follow established foot trail for 5 minutes.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fire Crags:
Jensen's Jugs   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Grib Dat Hole   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 50'   
Finger Fit   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Fire Crags

Featured Route For Fire Crags
Gets tricky for just a second and then totally cruiser.  James is a tad surprised for a 5.8 - went on to complete the route without issue...

Bent Brain 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Fire Crags
A quality warm-up to some of the harder lines at the cliff. Start left of Jensen's Jugs. A thin start leads to easier and enjoyable climbing above....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Fire Crags
Photos of Fire Crags Slideshow Add Photo
From the parking area, the Fire Crags (upper= yellow, lower= white-ish) look unassuming.  Walk 5 minutes and be whelmed by what it offers ("overwhelmed" might be a little much.)
BETA PHOTO: From the parking area, the Fire Crags (upper= yell...
Tim Coates, owner of Real Cheap Sports in Ventura, cruises "Grib Dat Hole."
Tim Coates, owner of Real Cheap Sports in Ventura,...
Green= Jensen's Jugs (5.10b), Blue= Movin' Out (5.11c), Yellow= Grib Dat Hole (5.11a). I apologize to the color blind out there. (Hint- left to right)
BETA PHOTO: Green= Jensen's Jugs (5.10b), Blue= Movin' Out (5....
Parking turnout for Fire Crags.
Parking turnout for Fire Crags.
Comments on Fire Crags Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 14, 2014
By Stephen Pratt
From: Goleta, CA
Jul 16, 2007

Just went climbing here over the weekend (7/15/07) and noticed that someone yanked out the anchor bolts above Europe Revisited. Is someone putting up a new anchor or just going to leave it like that?

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 18, 2007

Fire Crags recently suffered a failure of the first lead bolt on "Black Crack." The bolt was a 3/8" Rawl. The rock at Fire Crags is softer than nearby crags.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 5, 2008

Bolts and anchor replacement at the Fire Crags is scheduled for sometime this winter (2008/09).

By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 14, 2008

Hi guys,
I was wondering if you guys should consider Titanium anchors?

Look at the following link for good reasons to do so:
www.safeclimbing.org/education/deepbluesea.htm

Those Titanium Rock Climbing anchors can be found at Ushba Mountaineering.
Titanium is uniquely inert to chemicals like salt corrosion.

I was told they became affordable due to the cheaper Titanium found in Eastern Europe.
Those anchors will become the standard for Rock Climbing Anchors in Marine Environment.

They were designed to withstand the corrosion issue that is unique to those environment.
Cayman Island, Thailand, Calanques (France) anchors are being replaced with those anchors due to Chloride Salt Corrosion Cracking (read the article in the link).

Also, the Glue-In (which you are using with the Batinox) is well documented to be the best option in soft rocks:
www.saclimb.co.za/softsandstone_report.html
They also describe the best configuration of the eye-bolt to use.

Good luck and keep up the good work!

Colorado Climber

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 13, 2009

Bruno,
Thanks for the info.

I believe that the problem at Fire Crags is not salt corrosion. It's super soft rock. I recently removed the second bolt on Black's Crack in order to inspect it, and it demonstrated little corrosion. Even so, the first bolt on this route pulled out in a lead fall.

As such, I'm not sure that Titanium bolts would change the situation. Your idea about using glue-ins is one that I can get behind, though. Having placed them at other crags, my only thought is that it is extremely difficult and time consuming compared to dropping a few sleeve bolts in the wall. I would be very, very grateful if someone were willing to undertake all of this extra work.

By Jan Roestel
May 14, 2009

A headsup, I am planning on replacing some anchors and bolts at the Firecrags sometime this summer. I plan using Fixe glueins (with links)and Hlti HIT-RE 500 Epoxy Adhesive.

Jensons' Jugs:
Anchor and top two bolts

Grib dat Hole:
Anchor and lower two bolts

Others:
Bent Brain - maybe, anchors are loose
Haven't examined Black Crack yet

Comments and suggestions?

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2009

Jan, I suggest getting in touch with Randy Judycki first, as I know he was also planning on replacing them. Give me a holler and I can put you in touch.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 1, 2010

Any updates on the status of anchor quality/safety at this crag? Did replacements ever go in?

By Jan Roestel
Nov 18, 2010

Anchors have not been replaced yet.
I was in communication with Randy back and forth and he planned to do it in October but I got distracted with another new crag so I really haven't followed up with him.
Someday...

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 24, 2010

A couple of weeks ago we setup a TR on Jensons Jugs off of the older bolts up top b/c the missing rock around the hooks didn't sit well with us. To be overkillingly redundant we also backed it up to the SS rap anchors set way up top. Flake at the top of the crux felt hollow too - I'd hate to pull that off and ruin the route!

By 5150dhbiker
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 26, 2014

Visited here today after climbing at The Playground to check it out. Looks like most routes have been freshly bolted with solid anchors on most routes.

By Chris Morissette
From: Santa Barbara
Mar 14, 2014

I was up at Fire Crag yesterday and saw two baby rattlesnakes on the trail between the lower and the upper crag. There must be a den near there. They were extremely camouflaged so be careful.