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Oaklands
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Wanker Rail, The S 

Fir Real 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jones, Crawley, Bloom, Cox
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Abel Jones on Nov 5, 2011

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Nice Crisp day for an FA

Description 

Starts at a little fir tree below the obvious right facing overhanging corner. Crank straight up next to the tree through the low 11 stuff, then over a little butt puckering slab bulge to the base of the corner. Burl down or finess your way up the good holds throught the corner and end at a golden jug. Now feel good. Clip the last bolt and do a couple 7ish hand jams to the anchors. Another quality addition to this stacked section of Oaklands.

Location 

Located in the upper area of Oaklands right of Runaway Train and Left of Wanker Rail.

Protection 

7 bolts and an optional (unnecessary) #1 camalot.


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Dave putting the route in perspective.
Dave putting the route in perspective.

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