Hard. I found it to be hard for an 11a. However thats a little refreshing since many rumney 11as are a little soft. Just show up with your A-game and it will rock you like a hurricane.
Start behind the birch tree on the steep wall. Climb bouldery moves on underclings and sidepulls to a super trick and somewhat sandy couple of moves to the midway ledge. Hear you can rest off the pump then move left and up in to a left leaning corner. Stem your way up the corner using some hard to find holds and on to the anchors above.
As with a few of the routes at this crag some spots can be sandy but over all its nice quality and fun moves.
Just left of the super steep (and classic) Stoned Temple Pilots (5.11d). Start behind a birch tree and crank.
8 bolts to anchors
Jul 27, 2009
I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.
It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb.
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
hard for 11a, for sure!
|By S. Neoh|
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Very good route. Crux is short. Upper corner is really nice.
To me, this is one of the top 3 .11a at Rumney.