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Sonja seconding the second pitch of Fingertrip! W...
This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book.
P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree.
P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof.
P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge.
P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt).
1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, 1 each TCUs to #2 cam
Mark Pierson past the 1st pitch crux and nearing p...
Looking back at Mark Pierson on the last pitch of ...
Climber on the left finish, as seen from Vampire.
Mark Goss finishing the right variation.
Finishing up the second pitch of Fingertrip. Look...
Jonny, Bretts, and Gigi's first time ever in Tahqu...
First pitch of Fingertip.
A look down at the polished granite (and my irregu...
Darshan solos Fingertrip
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the Third Pitch of fingertrip with the ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the dihedral nearing the top of P1. T...
Messing around on the third pitch of Fingertrip
Getting ready to pull through the arch.
2nd pitch of fingertrip with some rain brewing
BETA PHOTO: Climbers topping out on Fingertrip (viewed from ne...
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Mar 6, 2006
Outstanding/mega classic route on super quality rock.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 11, 2006
One could say that Fingertrip ends at Lunch Ledge, and many climbs end here. Above there are a couple of variations to finish from the Lunch Ledge terminus, both variations start with the same steep steps behind Lunch Ledge...
The left route traverses along a very exciting diagonal weakness to clip a bolt then head up a slab (5.4).
The right route follows a 5.6 crack, and I suppose is a more fitting finale to most of the routes below.
|By Mark L|
May 20, 2007
If you want to preserve your sense of adventure dont read this. On the second pitch after the tree, go above tree 30-40' and you'll know when to traverse left by following the yellow band using your feet for a fun airy few moves before you gain a left facing corner. On the third pitch (approaching the roofs), aim for a bush up and left with a big hold 2 feet to its right.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007
The third pitch is terrific family fun. Well protected and fun moves. Great for someone who is trying to break into multi-pitch moderates. The exposure is really tame. Get on it. As many years as I have been climbing here, I am surprised how uncrowded it is.
|By Jon Hanlon|
Aug 17, 2007
Similar to the response to your comments on Piton Pooper, no convenience anchors have been required on Fingertrip since 1946. There's no need to add any now.
Fixed lines and added hardware will likely always "be removed before the next weekend." :)
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 5, 2008
Or perhaps a zip line back to Humber Park?
|By The Gray Tradster|
Mar 20, 2009
Tahquitz is not a sport crag. We must assume your feet work, you got up there somehow.
Do the Tobin Sorensen memorial tree swing if you dare.
(Woody told me it existed long before Tobin though)
|By Leah B|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 22, 2010
Just did this climb for the third time and seems like every time I do something silly on the first pitch, thought others might want to avoid the same mistake...especially newbies. After the first bit going up there is a tempting continuation of the crack that goes left...don't follow this if you want to stay on route (it's fun and leads over the the climb next door, but that one's a good bit harder than 5.7), instead go straight up over some discontinuous cracks/jugs and up to the rest of the crack.
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 30, 2011
Classic. Will not disappoint. On PITCH ONE, once you get into the final dihedral leading to the big tree, you will have two options for the last 25 or so feet. 1) Stay in the clean dihedral for an excellent fingers lie-back (5.8), which is the most direct line. OR 2) Take the splitter crack that angles up and left and belay at the bolts or traverse back to the tree across easy slab moves. The '85 Vogel (Red) guide shows the angling crack as the standard line with the dihedral as a variation, but the most current Gaines/Vogel guide makes no distinction, but lists the dihedral finish in the topo as .8 which I agree with completely. Either line is great. The pitch 2 crux --underclinging to the apex in the roof and pulling it-- felt pretty beefy for 5.7 too, but hey it's Tahquitz so... We did the friction finish (left) that I heard was 5.4...Ooookayyy. It's low angle but blank and the bolt is about 20' above the little tree/bush and then it's another 20+' to a little seam you can get something in and at that point it might actually be 5.4. So yeah a bolt and one piece for the final 60-70 feet. Add a couple nice strong gusts of wind and the fantastic exposure and it's quite a finish. Highly recommended.
|By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?|
Jun 30, 2011
The 5.6 crack variation on P-4 (as mentioned above by Chris Owen) was a blast, and a great way to finish this 4 star climb. Just climb straight up past a few short, and easy blocky sections from the Lunch Ledge, and veer right a few feet, or so to gain the clean, protectable 5.6 crack.
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 30, 2011
Best 5.7 ever. Thanks for all the great beta in the comments above. The climb went like clockwork for us but I could see people getting off-route easily if they don't pay attention.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 9, 2011
Having climbed this route 1 year ago, i thought i remembered the route. On P2 I climbed too high, passing the traverse-left. Since the moves up to my position were too thin to comfortably down climb, I made easy moves out right to join Fingertip Traverse.
|By Rob Donnelly|
From: Riverside, CA
Oct 10, 2011
I led behind Justin and used him as a route finder. This plan went south when he went off route. I traversed left on p2 but didn't know how far to go. I started climbing up the first left facing corner and thought it too gritty and too thin higher up. I down climbed and traversed left another ~4 ft into the left most left facing corner then belayed on top of some flakes just before the route starts arching left.
|By Gabe K|
Oct 26, 2011
Led this route twice in the past month. First time we went up and left from lunch ledge, following the traversing hand crack past a small bush then up a slabby finish (too far left to use the bolt). Second time I was leading and chose to take a hard right on a thin fin and found the great 5.6 corner to finish. I encourage anyone climbing this to take this much more enjoyable option!
|By Nick Zmyewski|
From: Newark, Delaware
Dec 18, 2011
Super fun route, my favorite route in a 3 week trip including stays at J Tree, Yosemite, and Red Rocks. I did do a funky finish to the climb, I saw the bolt on the last pitch, but wasnt sure if that was the way to go(and I dont really like slab). So I thought if I kept going left along the traversing flake I might find something, but then it dead-ended and I ended up doing slab anyway, only my way it was 5.9ish and no bolt. Definitely an eye-catching finish to a great day.
|By Trad Nanny|
Feb 13, 2012
Classic. I linked from the tree atop the first pitch to lunch ledge with a 70m rope. For the roof crux surmount just right of a tiny tree, then step over the tree to the left and up to earlier climbing.
|By Ryan Strickland|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Mar 11, 2012
Climbed this yesterday. Snow at the base but not anywhere on the route. A 60m will get you from the first pitch belay over the arch (next to Fingertip Traverse) with ~10 feet of rope to spare.
I recommend the slab finish, it's an exhilarating lead- pure friction to the bolt! When you reach that horizontal crack right before the slab, try walking the crack rather than hand traversing. It's easier and it feels pretty cool! I wouldn't call this pitch run-out at all, especially if you led the rest of the route. Past the bolt is very easy, turning into 4th class quickly.
|By The Ruin-er|
May 15, 2012
loved this route so much i did it twice this week
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 21, 2012
Can rappel of tree on pitch 1 with 70 meter with only a few feet to spare.