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Fingertrip 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chuck Wilts, Don Gillespie & Jerry Rosenblatt, September 1946
Page Views: 27,164
Submitted By: Stephanie on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (219)
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Sonja seconding the second pitch of Fingertrip! W...

Description 

This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book.
P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree.
P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof.
P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge.
P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt).

Protection 

1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, 1 each TCUs to #2 cam


Photos of Fingertrip Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on the left finish, as seen from Vampire.
Climber on the left finish, as seen from Vampire.
Jonny, Bretts, and Gigi's first time ever in Tahqu...
Jonny, Bretts, and Gigi's first time ever in Tahqu...
Darshan solos Fingertrip
Darshan solos Fingertrip
Finishing up the second pitch of Fingertrip.  Look...
Finishing up the second pitch of Fingertrip. Look...
Looking up the Third Pitch of fingertrip with the ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the Third Pitch of fingertrip with the ...
A look down at the polished granite (and my irregu...
A look down at the polished granite (and my irregu...
Messing around on the third pitch of Fingertrip
Messing around on the third pitch of Fingertrip
First pitch of Fingertip.
First pitch of Fingertip.
Getting ready to pull through the arch.
Getting ready to pull through the arch.
Mark Goss finishing the right variation.
Mark Goss finishing the right variation.
Looking back at Mark Pierson on the last pitch of ...
Looking back at Mark Pierson on the last pitch of ...
Mark Pierson past the 1st pitch crux and nearing p...
Mark Pierson past the 1st pitch crux and nearing p...
1st time climbing fingertrip on May 16, 2013! @ Lu...
1st time climbing fingertrip on May 16, 2013! @ Lu...
Friction top out.
BETA PHOTO: Friction top out.
Climbers topping out on Fingertrip (viewed from ne...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers topping out on Fingertrip (viewed from ne...
2nd pitch of fingertrip with some rain brewing
2nd pitch of fingertrip with some rain brewing
Crowded belay station.
Crowded belay station.
Looking down the dihedral nearing the top of P1. T...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the dihedral nearing the top of P1. T...
looking up from the start.
looking up from the start.

Comments on Fingertrip Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2014
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Outstanding/mega classic route on super quality rock.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 11, 2006

One could say that Fingertrip ends at Lunch Ledge, and many climbs end here. Above there are a couple of variations to finish from the Lunch Ledge terminus, both variations start with the same steep steps behind Lunch Ledge...

The left route traverses along a very exciting diagonal weakness to clip a bolt then head up a slab (5.4).

The right route follows a 5.6 crack, and I suppose is a more fitting finale to most of the routes below.
By Mark L
May 20, 2007

If you want to preserve your sense of adventure dont read this. On the second pitch after the tree, go above tree 30-40' and you'll know when to traverse left by following the yellow band using your feet for a fun airy few moves before you gain a left facing corner. On the third pitch (approaching the roofs), aim for a bush up and left with a big hold 2 feet to its right.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

The third pitch is terrific family fun. Well protected and fun moves. Great for someone who is trying to break into multi-pitch moderates. The exposure is really tame. Get on it. As many years as I have been climbing here, I am surprised how uncrowded it is.
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Aug 17, 2007

Similar to the response to your comments on Piton Pooper, no convenience anchors have been required on Fingertrip since 1946. There's no need to add any now.

Fixed lines and added hardware will likely always "be removed before the next weekend." :)
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 5, 2008

Or perhaps a zip line back to Humber Park?
By The Gray Tradster
Mar 20, 2009

Tahquitz is not a sport crag. We must assume your feet work, you got up there somehow.

Walk off.

Do the Tobin Sorensen memorial tree swing if you dare.

(Woody told me it existed long before Tobin though)
By Leah B
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just did this climb for the third time and seems like every time I do something silly on the first pitch, thought others might want to avoid the same mistake...especially newbies. After the first bit going up there is a tempting continuation of the crack that goes left...don't follow this if you want to stay on route (it's fun and leads over the the climb next door, but that one's a good bit harder than 5.7), instead go straight up over some discontinuous cracks/jugs and up to the rest of the crack.
By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic. Will not disappoint. On PITCH ONE, once you get into the final dihedral leading to the big tree, you will have two options for the last 25 or so feet. 1) Stay in the clean dihedral for an excellent fingers lie-back (5.8), which is the most direct line. OR 2) Take the splitter crack that angles up and left and belay at the bolts or traverse back to the tree across easy slab moves. The '85 Vogel (Red) guide shows the angling crack as the standard line with the dihedral as a variation, but the most current Gaines/Vogel guide makes no distinction, but lists the dihedral finish in the topo as .8 which I agree with completely. Either line is great. The pitch 2 crux --underclinging to the apex in the roof and pulling it-- felt pretty beefy for 5.7 too, but hey it's Tahquitz so... We did the friction finish (left) that I heard was 5.4...Ooookayyy. It's low angle but blank and the bolt is about 20' above the little tree/bush and then it's another 20+' to a little seam you can get something in and at that point it might actually be 5.4. So yeah a bolt and one piece for the final 60-70 feet. Add a couple nice strong gusts of wind and the fantastic exposure and it's quite a finish. Highly recommended.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jun 30, 2011

The 5.6 crack variation on P-4 (as mentioned above by Chris Owen) was a blast, and a great way to finish this 4 star climb. Just climb straight up past a few short, and easy blocky sections from the Lunch Ledge, and veer right a few feet, or so to gain the clean, protectable 5.6 crack.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Best 5.7 ever. Thanks for all the great beta in the comments above. The climb went like clockwork for us but I could see people getting off-route easily if they don't pay attention.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 9, 2011

Having climbed this route 1 year ago, i thought i remembered the route. On P2 I climbed too high, passing the traverse-left. Since the moves up to my position were too thin to comfortably down climb, I made easy moves out right to join Fingertip Traverse.
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Oct 10, 2011

I led behind Justin and used him as a route finder. This plan went south when he went off route. I traversed left on p2 but didn't know how far to go. I started climbing up the first left facing corner and thought it too gritty and too thin higher up. I down climbed and traversed left another ~4 ft into the left most left facing corner then belayed on top of some flakes just before the route starts arching left.
By Gabe K
Oct 26, 2011

Led this route twice in the past month. First time we went up and left from lunch ledge, following the traversing hand crack past a small bush then up a slabby finish (too far left to use the bolt). Second time I was leading and chose to take a hard right on a thin fin and found the great 5.6 corner to finish. I encourage anyone climbing this to take this much more enjoyable option!
By Nick Zmyewski
From: Newark, Delaware
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun route, my favorite route in a 3 week trip including stays at J Tree, Yosemite, and Red Rocks. I did do a funky finish to the climb, I saw the bolt on the last pitch, but wasnt sure if that was the way to go(and I dont really like slab). So I thought if I kept going left along the traversing flake I might find something, but then it dead-ended and I ended up doing slab anyway, only my way it was 5.9ish and no bolt. Definitely an eye-catching finish to a great day.
By Tradoholic
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic. I linked from the tree atop the first pitch to lunch ledge with a 70m rope. For the roof crux surmount just right of a tiny tree, then step over the tree to the left and up to earlier climbing.
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this yesterday. Snow at the base but not anywhere on the route. A 60m will get you from the first pitch belay over the arch (next to Fingertip Traverse) with ~10 feet of rope to spare.

I recommend the slab finish, it's an exhilarating lead- pure friction to the bolt! When you reach that horizontal crack right before the slab, try walking the crack rather than hand traversing. It's easier and it feels pretty cool! I wouldn't call this pitch run-out at all, especially if you led the rest of the route. Past the bolt is very easy, turning into 4th class quickly.
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

loved this route so much i did it twice this week
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Can rappel of tree on pitch 1 with 70 meter with only a few feet to spare.
By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jun 5, 2013

Hey there! Nate and I went on May 16, 2013 and it was a perfect day of climbing. We swap leads. This is my 1st time climbing this route and I loved it! Here's some of the videos that of each pitch. Sorry for the shakyness. Nate finished the 1 bolt slab finish w/c is also my 1st time topping off on that route! I usually prefer the 5.6 fingertip lieback!

Pitch 1


Pitch 2


Pitch 3
By Yosemitesam
Jul 1, 2013

Only had one day in Tahquitz and decided to do fingertrip. Only people on route all day.
Felt like a beefy 5.7.
On the 1st pitch I got suckered into the beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack that splits off left just before the top. It ended all too quickly and walking down the ramp back into the corner created rope drag. I felt like I cheated myself by not taking the 5.8 corner. It looked better.
I was not interested in roasting in the sun at a hanging belay so I linked 2 &3 to the optional belay below lunch ledge. Rope drag was not bad with strategically placed gear and long slings. It's also shady and comfy up there.
Thought the 5.0 up to lunch ledge felt more like 5.4. Unless I went the wrong way. Seemed there were multiple options.
Took the 5.4 slab finish. Got the heart pumping a little going to the bolt. It would suck to hit that ledge. Cruiser though after the bolt.
Pretty awesome route. Bad ass dudes in 1946.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 13, 2014

@Yosemitesam, The "beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack" that you got "suckered" into is actually the original "correct" route to take at the top of the first pitch, so don't feel too bad.

From the old Chuck Wilts guide:

"Where progress to the tree is blocked, ascend a narrow crack which leads diagonally up and left on the smooth face. Traverse back to the fir tree ledge."

This option is actually easier than 5.7.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Mar 10, 2014

In an attempt to get into the sun after freezing for three pitches this past Saturday, we skipped lunch ledge by continuing past it on easy terrain just to the right of lunch ledge and belaying at the first nice spot to stop at, which just happened to be right below where the crack/corner of the 5.6 finish begins. Nice!

Got us a little warmth, but I was thinking it would be a great way to skip lunch ledge on a crowded summer day, and the climbing was better than the broken blocks directly above the ledge. If you belay from the traditional start of the third pitch, a 60 meter rope is plenty to go this way.