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Beckey's Wall Area
Routes Sorted
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 
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Fingertrip Variation 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Weber, Ed Anderson 1960's
Page Views: 3,865
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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bobber, solid

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall. Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks. This route is every bit as good as Beckey's.


3 pins on the route, slung tree at the top. Bring more in case there are none. Small to medium gear. Cams seemed useful for some of the early pieces. Not as runout as I thought it would be. Watch the pins, watch the flakes with your cams. They won't last forever.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2014
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Oct 10, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sews up nicely, I didn't think it was even PG-13. There is some weeping on the route after wet weather that makes for a headier lead. Bring lots of long runners to help reduce rope drag if you climb this in one pitch.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I actually think this is better than Beckey's...
Awesome as one pitch, then do Bam Bam for a great 2 pitch...
Best to have 2 ropes, then at least you can rap from the top of Fingertip all the way to the ground...
I didn't really think it was PG13 either...maybe those first pieces ain't as good as I think they are--because of expanding--but the moves are actually really bomber, just big.
Great Line!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely one of the best at the Gate when done as one long pitch. Its not really run out but falling before getting a second piece after leaving the Becky could be a nasty one back onto the slab.

For descent, we belay the 2nd down (TRed) to the Beckey Routes chain anchors and then the leader downclimbs that easy 20' section on belay.
By mikewhite
Oct 23, 2008

Just rap of of the beckys anchors.

There was a convenience anchor added by the first bolt on pebbles by s000meone and after public outcry it was removed.

Why dont we just leave it the way it has been for years.

Less drilling more climbing!!!

One vote for fuck no!
By mikewhite
Oct 25, 2008

And if you dont have a 70m then take two ropes.
After all this is LCC. Right???
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Oct 25, 2008

I agree that a bolted rap station is better than killing a tree. The current climbing ethic seems to lean more towards an "everyone get home safe" motto.
I understand the trad ethic of leave no trace and don't place bolts if you don't have to (I started climbing at Suicide and Tahquitz in California). But on these really popular, easily accessible, routes I have no beef at all with good, solid belay/rap anchors.
By mikewhite
Oct 27, 2008

The problem is that this kind of thing has become common practice like Craig said.

It is still adding bolts to a route that has never had them.

Just because some jack ass, back in the day bought a drill and added bolts to other routes does not make it okay.

Just my two cents
You guys do what you like.
By mikewhite
Oct 27, 2008

Me too bro.
No big deal.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The upper piton is getting a bit wobbly. Not really a concern since it can be backed up with a .5 but it might come out soon with a bit of a tug. Pound it back in place if you pull it, it brings me great joy to clip these things.
And pull gently on the lower flakes, coming back down on the slab with a 200lbs section of the route would suck!

The tree anchor has not been replaced and the tree is in better shape than a lot of others I've rapped from. Oh well, it forces you to climb one of the slabs and do 3 raps if you only have 1 rope. There's an interesting new rap station halfway down pebbles in the dihedral, a huge choke slung with sections of what seems to be 12mm line. Funneh.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 12, 2011

I would like to add that some of the pins are shaky on the sporty section of the climb. The first pin can be backed up with a large stopper, and the last has a #1 camalot placement about 5 ft below it. This means if you blow the easy moves stepping into the lieback you're going to have a bad time.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd always gotten on to this from the right (Split Pants) after leaving Beckey's corner but now there's a garden growing in the cracks probably due to all the rains this summer. It was the crux for me and I found traversing in from the left (Becky's) considerably easier. The two pins seemed solid enough and can be backed up with gear. There are no longer any slings around the trees at the top.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Oct 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I think I counted two pins as of 10/10/14, although I may have missed one. Don't make the mistake of clipping the last pin short before the corner (like me), the rope drag easily adds a number grade. This is so good, I may get sucked over to this every time I head up Beckey's. If you're up for the grade, do it now!
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