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7. The Slabs
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Beginners Direct 
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Fingertip Trip 
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Wave Bye Bye 
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Wedge 

Fingertip Trip 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Ed Webster, Kurt Winkler 4/14/91
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: John Halupowski on May 22, 2013
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Description 

Located on the Wedge butress 3 pitches up. It's a hard and challenging steep face to slab climb. This description uses Interloper's first pitch as a warm up. If you have a hard time with Interloper, good luck. Ed called F.T. 5.10a but I think it's way harder.


P.1 Climb to the two bolt anchor at Interloper's start, just to the left of Sliding Board's first pitch. 200' 5.3

P.2 Up Interloper's first pitch. Climb up into scoop and clip the pitches only bolt, take a few breaths, and run it out to a two bolt belay in the middle of the slab above. 110' 5.10R

P.3 Up the easy slab for 50' to the long overlap (possible belay here to cut down on rope drag), aim for the right edge of a bush covered ledge. Climb onto ledge and up steep wall on large square holds. Clip old 3/8" bolt(awkward), and up right to a small flake and crux (old 3/8 bolt, another tenuous clip). Continue up slab passing a vertical crack on left(pro), and a hollow horizontal flake to a bolt(old 3/8) and finally left to a two bolt belay on a bushy ledge.


Location 

Start from the launching pad ledge below Standard Route.


Protection 

Small to medium wires and cams, draws, and courage.



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