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West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The 
Angle Iron Traverse 
Coffin Nail 
Crimes of Passion 
Dos Equis 
Edge, The 
El Camino Real 
Fingertip Traverse 
Hangover, The 
Jensen's Jaunt 
Last Judgment 
On the Road 
Pearly Gate 
Pigs in Bondage 
Shit for Brains 
Slab, The 
Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Van Aken, Ivan Weeks, and Curt Kreiser, June 1947
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
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Do the easy (3rd and 4th class) first two pitches of Fingertip Traverse. From the large, brushy ledge system, climb the large, left-facing corner directly to the right of the Fingertip Traverse lieback. This 130 long pitch involves some face moves and liebacks, with good rests between the hard moves. Above the crux, the dihedral arches to the left, with easy but insecure traversing on low angle rock. A 4th class pitch leads to Lunch Ledge.


standard rack

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By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....

The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak trees, just slightly below Lunch Ledge (which joins with the upper pitches of 'Fingertrip'). Make sure you place slings on pro placements for this pitch or you'll have a bit of rope drag. Also, take care to place gear for the follower when traversing the arch in the last 35' to the trees. Move the belay to Lunch Ledge (20' up and left by simuling). From Lunch Ledge, essentially head straight up steep ledges to the finishing slab above (lone single bolt protects the last 50').

By Tradoholic
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A little gardening and no pro coming out of The Jungle, but it shapes up quickly, fun if you've done all the other moderates on the wall.