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Finger Prince 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Baker, Joe Shiefman, Feb 2007
Season: Usually shady and breezy after noon, so always bring warm clothes
Page Views: 1,707
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 5, 2007
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EFR crimps away, on John Baker's Finger Prince.


Pretty cruxy all the way. Slightly overhung, very fingery, maybe a touch harder than SENTENCED. Most holds are full pad with a few exceptions. Good moves, 2.5 stars.


On the right side of the SENTENCED wall, two routes start from a narrow ledge about 6 feet off the ground. Finger Prince is the right-hand of the two routes.


6 bolts + chains.

Photos of Finger Prince Slideshow Add Photo
JB sighting in the crimp.
JB sighting in the crimp.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 6, 2007

Great name for a devious route. It is crimpy and sequential with the best move halfway up. More sustained on smaller holds than Sentenced to Hang but not quite as steep. Probably a letter harder than Sentenced...

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 6, 2007

I think this is at least 1 if not 2 letter grades harder than sentenced. But I only did both on toprope(very poorly maybe), so maybe my judgement doesn't mean much.

By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

Finger Prince is not quite as pumpy as Sentenced, but it's more technical. Once you've worked out the moves you'll find it's really only one letter grade harder that Sentenced.
P.S. You should be leading this one too.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This thing is indeed crimpy and sharp. However, there are some really great, balancy moves up top that make it worth all of the pain.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Definitely harder than Jailbreak too.