Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 
Aloof Roof 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 
Command Performance 
Do or Dive 
Doan's Pills 
Excellent Adventure 
Finger Love 
High Wire 
Nuclear Crayon 
Quaker State 
Raise Hell 
Shit Hook 
Stab in the Dark 
Step and Fetch 
Wailing Wall 
Zombie Woof 

Finger Love 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun face and crack climb alternative to the corner offered by Doan's Pills. Hike up the slab to the face and start working your way up the central vertical crack. Moderate moves take you to an interesting crux bulge that guards the final 10 feet or so before getting into the traverse. If you have enough small gear it protects quite well and is probably aidable if necessary.

Look out for the loose brick lodged midway up the face, not sure if it'd come loose but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Topping out the vertical crack leads to a second "mini pitch" of totally different character. Make a burly traverse, finagling your way out right to the exit corner. Probably good training if you are eyeing Zombie Woof...

Has a lot in common with Doan's Pills, so see that page for related beta.


Location 

Atop the landing where Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do, Stab in the Dark, etc top out.

Rap down via slings at the corner at end of the traverse or top out and hike to several other options (Golden Earring station, various gullies).


Protection 

Standard Moore's stuff - small to mid-size for the face. For the traverse .75-2 sizes suffice but big gear may work too.



Comments on Finger Love Add Comment
Show which comments
By GWB
Jun 22, 2012

Look here for a good route picture of Finger Love. It provides an excellent view of the route.

I would recommend leaving the helmet at the belay if you brought one up. The traverse is much simpler without the bulky plastic encompassing your head.

I just wish it went for a few more pitches!