Finger Love  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Fun face and crack climb alternative to the corner offered by Doan's Pills. Hike up the slab to the face and start working your way up the central vertical crack. Moderate moves take you to an interesting crux bulge that guards the final 10 feet or so before getting into the traverse. If you have enough small gear it protects quite well and is probably aidable if necessary.

Look out for the loose brick lodged midway up the face, not sure if it'd come loose but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Topping out the vertical crack leads to a second "mini pitch" of totally different character. Make a burly traverse, finagling your way out right to the exit corner. Probably good training if you are eyeing Zombie Woof...

Has a lot in common with Doan's Pills, so see that page for related beta.

Location 

Atop the landing where Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do, Stab in the Dark, etc top out.

Rap down via slings at the corner at end of the traverse or top out and hike to several other options (Golden Earring station, various gullies).

Protection 

Standard Moore's stuff - small to mid-size for the face. For the traverse .75-2 sizes suffice but big gear may work too.