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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
Zombie Woof T 

Finger Love 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012

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Description 

Fun face and crack climb alternative to the corner offered by Doan's Pills. Hike up the slab to the face and start working your way up the central vertical crack. Moderate moves take you to an interesting crux bulge that guards the final 10 feet or so before getting into the traverse. If you have enough small gear it protects quite well and is probably aidable if necessary.

Look out for the loose brick lodged midway up the face, not sure if it'd come loose but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Topping out the vertical crack leads to a second "mini pitch" of totally different character. Make a burly traverse, finagling your way out right to the exit corner. Probably good training if you are eyeing Zombie Woof...

Has a lot in common with Doan's Pills, so see that page for related beta.

Location 

Atop the landing where Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do, Stab in the Dark, etc top out.

Rap down via slings at the corner at end of the traverse or top out and hike to several other options (Golden Earring station, various gullies).

Protection 

Standard Moore's stuff - small to mid-size for the face. For the traverse .75-2 sizes suffice but big gear may work too.


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By GWB
Jun 22, 2012

Look here for a good route picture of Finger Love. It provides an excellent view of the route.

I would recommend leaving the helmet at the belay if you brought one up. The traverse is much simpler without the bulky plastic encompassing your head.

I just wish it went for a few more pitches!