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Finger Locks or Cedar Box 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,193
Submitted By: Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Finger Locks or Cedar Box
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  • Description 

    This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.


    Location 

    About 25' right of Northern Pillar.


    Protection 

    G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.



    Photos of Finger Locks or Cedar Box Slideshow Add Photo
    Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box
    Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box
    classic beginner crack
    classic beginner crack
    Comments on Finger Locks or Cedar Box Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By divnamite
    From: New York, NY
    Mar 11, 2009
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

    The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun.

    By gblauer
    From: Wayne, PA
    Aug 24, 2010

    I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well.

    By SketchySam
    Sep 7, 2010

    This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks.

    By Heather Selitrennikoff
    From: East Coast
    Sep 17, 2010

    As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises.

    By LLee
    From: New York, New York
    Oct 24, 2010

    I thought this was a great route but I disagree about it being a good route for a beginning 5.5 leader. It is rather stiff for the grade and although there are lots of places for gear, some of the stances to place them are not great. I also note that Zac Orenczak's book gives it a 5.8 grade..I don't think it is that tough but there are a few tricky moves, for a 5.5.

    By Chris Duca
    Administrator
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jul 29, 2011
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

    Definitely one THE best protected routes at the Gunks, and it's a legitimate 5.5 finger crack to boot!

    By Ben Brotelho
    From: Albany, NY
    Dec 14, 2012
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

    Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack!

    By rogerbenton
    Apr 14, 2013
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

    Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13...

    By A.wilk
    From: MA
    May 21, 2013

    Fun crack and super well protected. Just be careful if there is a bird's nest in the pod below the tree and the bird is still around.

    By Kevin Heckeler
    From: Upstate New York
    Oct 21, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    Above the tree/small roof the crack disappears and the lower angle face doesn't offer a lot of pro. A beginning leader might find this 'thin' by most G standards.

    I caution people to jam solidly at the start, because the crack is getting heavily polished due to constant gang roping. Sew it up at the bottom, it's a short route.