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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,596
Submitted By: Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Description 

This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.


Location 

About 25' right of Northern Pillar.


Protection 

G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.



Photos of Finger Locks or Cedar Box Slideshow Add Photo
Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box
classic beginner crack
classic beginner crack
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2014
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2010

I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well.

By SketchySam
Sep 7, 2010

This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks.

By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Sep 17, 2010

As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises.

By LLee
From: New York, New York
Oct 24, 2010

I thought this was a great route but I disagree about it being a good route for a beginning 5.5 leader. It is rather stiff for the grade and although there are lots of places for gear, some of the stances to place them are not great. I also note that Zac Orenczak's book gives it a 5.8 grade..I don't think it is that tough but there are a few tricky moves, for a 5.5.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Definitely one THE best protected routes at the Gunks, and it's a legitimate 5.5 finger crack to boot!

By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack!

By rogerbenton
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13...

By A.wilk
From: MA
May 21, 2013

Fun crack and super well protected. Just be careful if there is a bird's nest in the pod below the tree and the bird is still around.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Above the tree/small roof the crack disappears and the lower angle face doesn't offer a lot of pro. A beginning leader might find this 'thin' by most G standards.

I caution people to jam solidly at the start, because the crack is getting heavily polished due to constant gang roping. Sew it up at the bottom, it's a short route.

By micah richard
Jul 22, 2014

Super nice crack lead, its no harder than 5.6, if you have any idea how to hand jam. Well worth it , even though its so short.