Finger Lickin' Good
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 350'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Nathan Brown - rope solo|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,142|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Feb 2, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Cool swirls of rock on the headwall of the last pi...
This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.
Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.
P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.
P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.
P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!
Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.
In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).
standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.
BETA PHOTO: Picture Topo. The streak to the right is Non-prof...
|Comments on Finger Lickin' Good
From: Clemson, SC
Apr 9, 2012
Highly recommended route. It's probably 5.8R to the first bolt of P1 but after that the route is pretty well protected. The only gear I placed was an orange TCU on P2 and an assortment of cams up to #2 camalot including hybrids for the first 40 feet of P3.
|By Stephen Scoff|
From: Columbia, South Carolina
4 days ago
Great variety! Another MUST DO route!