Finger Lickin' Good 5.11a
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Nate A. and S. Kimball
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The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an excellent two pitch line that ends at the same belay as Pressure Drop.
P1. Start in a rightward traversing finger seam to the right of Pressure Drop and left of the Crescent Arch. The first 20' of traversing are the crux, 11a ,with thin feet and difficult gear placements. Continue with gradually improving feet and construct a gear belay where the crack turns vertical, 50'.
P2. Pitch two fires up the thin crack to the bolted belay. Again, the start is the hardest, followed by great finger locks with solid gear the whole way 11a.
Rappel 80' from chains. One of the bolts could use a large washer to better hold the chain.
Protection Lots of small to medium stoppers, Aliens.
Nate on traverse belayed by Edward Corder II
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the crux moves of the 2nd pitch
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Starting the crux of the second pitch. Notice the...
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Tom Jensen nearly completing the traverse section ...
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| Comments on Finger Lickin' Good |
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By Nate Christiansen
Aug 1, 2003
| The first pitch is really not that difficult, it just makes you think. For a crack fiend, it is a little less secure considering you are underclinging the pitch. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are hard because you are trying to get away from the all the slings and RPs. The rest is ultra classic. |
By nolteboy
Nov 28, 2005
| Awesome, especially p2. |
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2006
| This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant.
Mal |
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 24, 2007
| The anchor bolts on this Lumpy classic were replaced in the fall of '06 with ASCA hardware. Ditto Malcolm's comment that this is best done as a single pitch route which I have done numerous times with one rope and no rope drag issues by using longer runners (24") at the end of the traverse and the beginning of the upper crack. |
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Oct 19, 2008
| Much, much more enjoyable and easier done as 1 pitch, rope drag is not really a problem if you use long slings at the end of the traverse and run it out a bit. Brilliant climbing! Felt easier to me than Pressure Drop. |
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb. |
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