Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Crescent Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleft Palate T 
Crescent Arch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Flight for Life S 
Friction Addiction T,S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 
Milk Run T 
Pressure Drop T 
Root Canal T 

Finger Lickin' Good 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hare, ?
Page Views: 4,076
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting the crux of the second pitch. Notice the...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an excellent two pitch line that ends at the same belay as Pressure Drop.

P1. Start in a rightward traversing finger seam to the right of Pressure Drop and left of the Crescent Arch. The first 20' of traversing are the crux, 11a ,with thin feet and difficult gear placements. Continue with gradually improving feet and construct a gear belay where the crack turns vertical, 50'.

P2. Pitch two fires up the thin crack to the bolted belay. Again, the start is the hardest, followed by great finger locks with solid gear the whole way 11a.

Rappel 80' from chains. One of the bolts could use a large washer to better hold the chain.

Protection 

Lots of small to medium stoppers, Aliens.


Photos of Finger Lickin' Good Slideshow Add Photo
the crux moves of the 2nd pitch
the crux moves of the 2nd pitch
Nate on traverse belayed by Edward Corder II
Nate on traverse belayed by Edward Corder II
Nate A. and S. Kimball
Nate A. and S. Kimball
Tom Jensen nearly completing the traverse section of Pressure Drop, spectacular route.
Tom Jensen nearly completing the traverse section ...

Comments on Finger Lickin' Good Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Christiansen
Aug 1, 2003

The first pitch is really not that difficult, it just makes you think. For a crack fiend, it is a little less secure considering you are underclinging the pitch. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are hard because you are trying to get away from the all the slings and RPs. The rest is ultra classic.
By nolteboy
Nov 28, 2005

Awesome, especially p2.
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2006

This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant.
Mal
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 24, 2007

The anchor bolts on this Lumpy classic were replaced in the fall of '06 with ASCA hardware. Ditto Malcolm's comment that this is best done as a single pitch route which I have done numerous times with one rope and no rope drag issues by using longer runners (24") at the end of the traverse and the beginning of the upper crack.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Oct 19, 2008

Much, much more enjoyable and easier done as 1 pitch, rope drag is not really a problem if you use long slings at the end of the traverse and run it out a bit. Brilliant climbing! Felt easier to me than Pressure Drop.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb.
By WadeM
Jun 6, 2014

Another great Lumpy climb!!!!

Either commit to a hard lieback and running it out to the vertical crack (scary as shit)

or

stay low through the traverse with very thin feet and strenuous crimp lockoffs. Bring small offsets and rps for the initial traverse. About halfway, there is room for a BOMBER, offset, red alloy.

The vertical section is quite thin off the next pitch. Purple or tight blue Metolius! A variety of technique will make this section not too bad. It has good gear, so just fire it!

The locks continue to get better as you climb up. There is even a secret hold off left if you can find it!

This felt about the same as Pressure Drop.