Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T,S 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T,S 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T,S 
There Goes The Neighborhood T,S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 

Finger Licker 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ron Kauk?
Page Views: 1,147
Submitted By: Colin Brochard on Sep 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Steeper and more awesome than it appears here.
Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>

Description 

start in a thin finger crack and proceed onto awsome thin crimps on an almost vertical face, very sustained and technical for the grade


Location 

right side of the wall


Protection 

might be a sketchy trad lead, I toproped after leading rated x (5.7) to the left



Comments on Finger Licker Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 16, 2008

FA Ron Kauk? It's been led, but sure looks like thin and sparse gear.

EDIT: The old Eric Beck guide says the first pitch was freed by two guys before Kauk did it. Information is incomplete, but I would guess that Kauk got the FA on the second pitch. The first pitch is likely 5.10+, but a tricky lead on thin gear.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2009

Just did this one again the other day. This is a stellar toprope, not to be missed if you do Rated X. The face is covered with interesting features and sustained .10 climbing. Really terrific! I saw at least 2 or 3 chopped lead bolts on the face.

I then toproped it again, trying to stay more in line with the crack that is a little right of where the best face holds are. It's an interesting conundrum... the best climbing is on the face and the crack is out of line, it actually feels contrived to stay near the crack! Definitely a little more difficult as well.

I scoped it with the lead in mind (plan to go back) and it looks plenty safe, just lots of small cams (blue aliens, etc.)

By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

watch out for a couple hollow plates midway and towards the top, wouldn't want to pull these off onto your friends below! awesome route.

By FGT
Aug 17, 2011

It goes on gear but I had to run it out above the crack, which made for a terrifyingly-awesome lead.

By Lurker
Mar 10, 2012

Second pitch is definitely worthy, and probably goes at 5.10+. Both pitches take decent gear.

By T. Page
From: Truckee, CA
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Led this second pitch today after the first pitch of Rated X. It was full on, but can be protected with small nuts, C3's, medium/small under the roof. A blue/yellow offset master cam would have been crucial to protect a potential ground fall about half way up; wish I would have had one, takes nuts too though. It didn't seem like it sees too much traffic, but is a really good, if not bold, pitch. Two raps to the ground.

By Jeff Angermann 1
From: Reno, Nevada
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Led P1 today. Gear beta:

(2) #2 WC rocks
(2 or 3) 0.1 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.4 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.5 camalot
(1) 0.75 camalot

Dispense with the stoppers if you have more microcams in the 0.1 size. The crack eats up this size.