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Finger Injury?
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By Tyler W
From Utah
Jun 21, 2013
Scooby Snacks

Yesterday when pulling on a problem with a hard two finger pocket move, I noticed it hurt but didnt hear any sort of audible pop. Within hours I cant flex back my ring finger back (as if doing a forearm stretch) without significant pain. What do you think I injured, exactly?


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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Jun 21, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...

Your finger.


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By Erick Valler
From flat midwest
Jun 21, 2013

Sounds like a lumbrical issue maybe with a touch of arm tendon strain, test by holding your ring finger stationary while curling your pinky, then try to press with ring finger against resistance. That's how I determined that to be my injury. Get ready for a couple months of depression! well do the right thing and submerge that hand in cold water 2-3x daily and I would recommend taping the pinky to ring, this will allow you to climb easy stuff to actively rehab (after some time off). Not a doc, just my own experience since the end of february. and do yourself a favor, avoid pocket routes in gyms... even when I think my hand is completely healed i'll grab a pocket and hate them forever for it cuz i'll still feel some pain. good luck!


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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Jun 21, 2013
onsight soloing Atman

I assume you were using the middle and ring fingers?

Some info on a possibility;

pocket trauma

If this is what you have, the good news is that you can climb through it so long as you don't split your fingers. MacCleod has some info on his site as well.


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