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...just left of Climb and Punishment. start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly not the most remarkable route on the formation, however it is right next to climb and punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing.The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze thru the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale) so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders. Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climbers left. One rope'll get ya down.
std rack for the V 'cept no big bros required.no fixed pro.
|Comments on Finger Grinder
|By Jesse Ryan|
Sep 15, 2005
I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney.