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 ADVANCED
Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Climbs of Passion Exit T 
Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
Finger Grinder T 
Fist Crack, The T 
Glenda's Chimney T 
Howling T 
Hug Jombo T 
Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Finger Grinder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 12, 2004

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Description 

Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.


Protection 

Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big bros are required. There is no fixed protection.



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By Jesse Ryan
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney.