Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: John Garson & Jeb Schenck, early 1970s
Page Views: 2,688 total · 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.

Per Cory N: rap off of the rings above Glenda's Chimney. Navigate climber's left and through a small hole in the boulders to find your way there. One rope'll get you down. 

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big Bros are required. There is no fixed protection.

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