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Mystery Rock
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Alliteration Arete S 
Finger Crack T 
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Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2011

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Description 

This is a climb with 20 feet of very good climbing in a crack followed by reasonable climbing for 65 additional feet. The climb may feel somewhat misnamed. Although it is characterized by a crack at the bottom, it is only 1/3 of the climb and wider than fingers for half of that, ranging from 0.75" to 2". After the crack, head up and slightly left passing a short-needled fir to the left side of it, then up and left more to pass a long-needled pine to the right side before cutting more sharply left (maybe slightly run-out, but on very moderate terrain) to head up and left to the bolted anchor with rap hangers at the top of the climb 'Open Book.' The slight run-out up top can be avoided by going left under the pine and finishing via the 2 bolts on the top of "Open Book." Rap 85'.

Location 

This is the obvious and striking finger to thin-hands crack on the uphill right side of the crag, starting from a natural platform at the cliff's base above a short, loose gully.

Protection 

A rack from 0.5-3" and a single bolt, or 3 bolts finishing on the other route.


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