Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(4) Music Hall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backdrop T 
Balcony Dihedral T 
Big Drum S 
Big Nose Valentino T 
Call Me Ishmael T 
Chinese Fiddle T 
Comeback Arete S 
Composure S 
Finger Crack S 
Fucking Fall S 
Harmless Horror T 
Last Huge Rock T 
Moby Dick T 
Mural Wall T 
Nancy's Attempt S 
Nut Pitch, The T 
Path to the Sky S 
Reluctant S 
Shield T 
Sky Wall 1 S 
Small Triangle T 
Starbuck T 
Steal Your Face T 
Three Right Feet T 
Undercling Jam S 
Wedding Route S 

Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ali attempts with Milk on belay.

Description 

Bouldery start by pinching or crimping small holds and pebbles and stepping high. Gain the bolted finger crack and ride it to the ledge.

Crank on a cool sloping ramp past a few more bolts. Take your pick of anchors to lower from.



Location 

The rightmost line of bolts in the pacific-facing section of Music Hall. Look for the crack, you can't miss it!
Anywhere else, the bolting and rebolting would have caused a shitstorm for sure. Leave your rack at home and savor the guiltiest of pleasures.

Protection 

Bolts (2006)


Photos of Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Milk on the final face crux
Milk on the final face crux
Milk about to launch into the crux of Finger Crack...
Milk about to launch into the crux of Finger Crack...

Comments on Finger Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Jan 14, 2011

The route is named "汋" ("shu4-qin2"), meaning "harp", also a musical instrument.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Small fingers make the crux far easier. In fact, for me, I would say it's a one-move-wonder that doesn't really compare to the consistent movement and difficulty of its neighbors, Fucking Fall and Big Drum. But if you're looking for a first "11c" tick, jump on it.
By BrianWS
Nov 22, 2013

I liked this route. The character of the climbing changes completely after the ledge. But true, it isn't nearly as continuous as the neighboring routes (which aren't all that continuous in the first place, given the monster horizontal halfway up)

It's not very difficult if you know how to jam and lock -- I sure as hell didn't when I climbed this route and it felt tough. I'd love to get the chance to climb it again and see how it measures up.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

11c is probably a good compromise grade as the crux is definitely more difficult if you cant get your fingers in that sweet crack and much easier if you can.

If you've got sausage fingers and are frustrated by the thin crux , you can bypass it by using holds on the right of the bulge -- just don't claim you climbed the "fingercrack"!