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Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,035
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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About midway up.

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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


This is a short climb, about 25 feet up. The crack starts more wide open with options for laybacks if you are feeling creative. It revolves from the right to left with a one or two degree slant. The crack has yet to be worn out so all finger jams are pretty solid - a good one for those who may not be that comfortable in cracks. Note: There is one loose rock up there, but it does not come out.


Standard rack, with emphasis on mid-sized stoppers. Two bolts with hangers at the top for easy TR or anchor. Easy walk off.

Photos of Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Friso S about to climb Finger Crack despite cold, snow, dark, homework
Friso S about to climb Finger Crack despite cold, ...
Danny half way up the 5.9 finger crack. Fun lay-back.
Danny half way up the 5.9 finger crack. Fun lay-ba...
Small climb but very fun to learn cracks on!
Small climb but very fun to learn cracks on!
The beautiful finger crack viewed from the start.  Sustained and fun; the crux is getting to the pod halfway up.
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful finger crack viewed from the start. ...
Leading Finger Crack.  What a great route! <br /> <br />Photo by Eva R.
Leading Finger Crack. What a great route!

Photo ...
Peter Dillon cranking the moves to the top.
Peter Dillon cranking the moves to the top.
At the bottom.
At the bottom.
Comments on Finger Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2014
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 4, 2001

There are currently two bolts at the top of the crack making an easy setup for top rope. -casey bernal

By John Jennings
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2002

Fantastic route! Bomber gear and interesting moves throughout most of the climb. I placed a few mid-sized stoppers and found a great spot for a Green Alien about 3/4 of the way up.

By Eddie Bruzdzinski
Sep 3, 2002

Cool climb! Bring your chalkbag... I climbed it after it was toproped by everyone in a large party. Very greasy (monkey traverse).

By Gabe Anderson
Apr 21, 2003

A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing.

By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Jun 3, 2003

Has anyone else noticed the suspect nature of the rock that the right (east) top anchor is drilled into? It may be ok, but the rock around the bolt sounds a little hollow when pounded on with your hand.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Sep 23, 2003

The rock all around is plenty solid. No worries on getting anyone hurt. If anyone rescues a blue Smiley's #7 nut from the crack about 2/3 the way up, I'd REALLY appreciate it back. A nut tool + rock hammer may be required as my buddy didn't really know how to clean it and made the situation a lot worse... Also, if someone has a LOT of free time on their hands, please help me scrub that crack with a bouldering brush. It needs the abrasion. Thanks.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Apr 5, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

"A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. "

Finger crack that is.

There are maybe 2 hands on this route. I used one #1 Camalot, but everything else was in the .5" to .75" range. Felt like I was climbing at Table Mtn... greasy and short (fun nonetheless).

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 2, 2005

This is a great climb for the moderate or advanced trad climber. I would not recommend that it be climbed by novice trad climbers as there are not very many good spots to rest or put pro in. A great climb on TR for the moderately skilled crack climber. A little greasy on hot days. I also found some blood on a small ledge. Overall an excellent climb sans the grease, blood, or typical weekend crowds.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2007

This route is really short, but it is a good quality crack. Easy access makes this a good easy trad route. If this crack were in the middle of a multipitch climb, it would be a classic pitch.

By B-rad
Oct 5, 2008

This crack made for a nice first clean aid climb. Solid gear and short enough to complete with a standard free-climbing rack. C1 perhaps? I have no idea.

By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Oct 18, 2009

Greasy, but fun. I have a half broken ankle, and found plenty of horizontal ledges to stand on, part crack, part face climb.

By JitsClimber
From: Broomfield,Co
Jul 5, 2011

Grease is getting worse. Watch your hand jams carefully. Climbed it this weekend again, and it's worse than the first time I climbed it. Lots of chalk making it super slick too. Still a fun climb though.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 13, 2013

Awesome finger crack! Best 5.9 I've done in a long time. Two-hang on lead; flash on TR. A couple gear placements are real strenuous.

By Eliot Augusto
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2014

Great crack. Super painful on the muscles for the new crack climber, I was screaming like the pros to get my arms to work. The feet are much better than they look.