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South Nuttall
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Beckoning, The 
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Finger Crack in White Corner 
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New Traditionalist 

Finger Crack in White Corner 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson?
Page Views: 943
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed 5.12- finger crack. Absolutely classic.

Description 

This route is absolutely sick. I would most definitely say that this route is worth the trip to South Nuttall all by itself. Made the trip out to this thing about three times to get it done. Took a huge whip going for it, but this route takes good gear the whole way.

The route starts in an obtuse corner with an intimidating, yet not too bad roof pull at its end. Gear is a bit spaced through here, but what you get is good. Pull into the killer finger crack section and work in a few pieces of great pro and then launch up into the killer shallow dihedral. Here a mix of right side in the crack and left side on the face climbing, combined with some killer stemming leads to the top of the corner. Step right on to a small ledge where you can catch your breath from the increasingly challenging climbing you just completed. Finish by more killer stemming and crack climbing up to the two bolts below the large roof.

This route is quite sustained, so rack up...the pump clock is ticking.


Location 

This route is located in a left facing corner at the Poison Ivy Wall


Protection 

Set of wires. Double set of cams from tips to hands, one fist sized piece.



Comments on Finger Crack in White Corner Add Comment
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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 29, 2010

Seems this is known simply as "Finger Crack in White Corner."

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 25, 2010

Scott, good to see that others call it this too. (Name of route edited in the database aug 25, 2010)

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 20, 2011

really good route. the crux sequence is bizarre! not really that much of a finger crack climb, though. More face-y than it looks.