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Finger crack footwork help.
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Mar 31, 2013
So I'm not so hot at getting down the footwork for harder finger cracks. I know you're suppose to smear the foot a bit more on the "outside" or edge, but I'm just not quite getting it.

Tips?
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 31, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
Top rope a bunch. Try pointing your foot into the crack as if you are shoving your four smaller toes into it (rather than putting all the focus on the big toe). Keep the heel low. Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
781 points
Mar 31, 2013
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Top rope a bunch. Try pointing your foot into the crack as if you are shoving your four smaller toes into it (rather than putting all the focus on the big toe). Keep the heel low.


Yeah been working on it on TR. When you say "Keep the heel low." How low are we talking? Below the plane of my toes or even?
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 31, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
NorCalNomad wrote:
Yeah been working on it on TR. When you say "Keep the heel low." How low are we talking? Below the plane of my toes or even?


I think "heel low" means pinky toe side rand pasting in the crack with toes pointing up - this works well in fat finger sizes or offsets.
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
408 points
Apr 2, 2013
Hardly comprehensive but might help.






Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,732 points
Apr 2, 2013
dream canyon fun!
+1 Doligo Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,262 points
May 5, 2013
Nameless boulder on the edge of the Holy Boulders ...
Try looking for any available foot placements outside the crack also, keeping 1 foot tip smeared in the thin crack and the other on an edge. If there isn't anything, you just have to stick your foot in sideways and weight it. Keep your heel just low enough to allow more contact with the sole of your shoe.

Heel slightly lower than toe
Heel slightly lower than toe
Lorenzo Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 23, 2011
174 points
May 5, 2013



The video is on all aspects of finger cracks, for footwork, they start at like 3:50, but the whole video is pretty good & worth the watch

Part of the Crack School Wide Boys How to Climb Series.
Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Joined Oct 23, 2012
3 points
May 5, 2013
Showing off Johns almighty poop tube on the top of...
The real secret to finger cracks is upper body strength. Living in the desert and climbing cracks all the time I've learned that it doesn't matter how good your technique is when it comes to finger cracks if your not strong enough to lock off on one arm. Everyone you see hiking finger cracks are really strong and thats why their footwork looks so bomber. That doesn't mean that some good footwork won't help, it just isn't going to be the limiting factor. On a splitter crack with nothing for your feet I would estimate that your only getting about 10% to 15% max assistance out of your feet, the rest is upper body. Also keeping your feet high on splitter finger cracks is key so they don't keep skating. Steven Lucarelli
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 8, 2005
4,387 points


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