Finger crack footwork help.

So I'm not so hot at getting down the footwork for harder finger cracks. I know you're suppose to smear the foot a bit more on the "outside" or edge, but I'm just not quite getting it.

Tips?

Top rope a bunch. Try pointing your foot into the crack as if you are shoving your four smaller toes into it (rather than putting all the focus on the big toe). Keep the heel low.

Ryan Nevius wrote:Top rope a bunch. Try pointing your foot into the crack as if you are shoving your four smaller toes into it (rather than putting all the focus on the big toe). Keep the heel low.

NorCalNomad wrote: Yeah been working on it on TR. When you say "Keep the heel low." How low are we talking? Below the plane of my toes or even?

Hardly comprehensive but might help.

http://vimeo.com/40346006

Jim

+1 Doligo

Try looking for any available foot placements outside the crack also, keeping 1 foot tip smeared in the thin crack and the other on an edge. If there isn't anything, you just have to stick your foot in sideways and weight it. Keep your heel just low enough to allow more contact with the sole of your shoe.

The real secret to finger cracks is upper body strength. Living in the desert and climbing cracks all the time I've learned that it doesn't matter how good your technique is when it comes to finger cracks if your not strong enough to lock off on one arm. Everyone you see hiking finger cracks are really strong and thats why their footwork looks so bomber. That doesn't mean that some good footwork won't help, it just isn't going to be the limiting factor. On a splitter crack with nothing for your feet I would estimate that your only getting about 10% to 15% max assistance out of your feet, the rest is upper body. Also keeping your feet high on splitter finger cracks is key so they don't keep skating.