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Rock Garden
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Unsorted Routes:

Fine Young Cannibals 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wayne Smith, Glenn Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

Immediately left of Darla and on the adjacent buttress, FYC climbs up steep terrain on a system of near perfect edges. The climbing is continuous and fairly relentless for the grade. It seemed as though every move was close to 5.11 and the cruxes start coming at you right off the ground. FYC comes highly recommended for the good stone, continuity, and relentless evolution of sequences.

Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.


Comments on Fine Young Cannibals Add Comment
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By tim naylor
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Good climbing with a few quick rests. It is tricky and friable at the upper crux.
By cranshark
Jul 27, 2004

Great route! DO IT! DO IT! Couple of things to be aware of, the flake just past the 6th bolt feels like it's ready to go at any moment, try to work out to the right and avoid it (or bring yer glue!) Also, the anchors are open shuts so don't go wandering too far above it, although it's easier to clip when they are about waist level (at least for me!)
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is one of the best routes in Penitente at the grade! Long route with sustained climbing with a wide variety of moves. It's worth the walk to the Rock Garden. Do it!
By William Mondragon
From: My car
Nov 1, 2012

This is Choss. This isn't worth glueing, and this DEFINITELY isn't Penitente or Rock Garden's best. I can name 4 of the same grade that are better. AVOID.