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Baby Face / Middle Wall
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Fine Whine S 
Question of Balance T,TR 

Fine Whine 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. Warren & P. Howard
Season: Any nice day.
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Apr 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Fine Whine is a fantastic route up an imposing line. The Gunnistoner old guard looked at that wall for years and day dreamed about a route up it. It took bolts and Robert's vision to complete. A little over half way up is a giant white crystal that plays an integral role in the ascent. A very cool route to be sure.

Location 

This route is generally accessed from either Left Hand or Air Conditioner. I think the Left Hand start is more common. Either way you will want a standard rack to lead through the cruxes of those trad starts. Fine Whine runs straight up the beautiful, overhanging wall between Left Hand and Air Conditioner.

Protection 

Five bolts and gear to a 2 bolt belay.
A standard rack would be appreciated to get to the start of the sportiness.


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By phil broscovak
Apr 29, 2009

I really enjoyed this route though I didn't lead. A couple years back I was hanging around and met some nice folks up at the AC corner one day and they let me clean it. I thought it was a brilliant climb. The critical crystal is such a cool feature that is worth two stars all by itself. The free hanging rap to the ground let's you know how steep it is and explained why my arms were so pumped. This is a very worthy climb...for a sport route.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 30, 2009

So Phil, does it go directly above Left Hand, or does it start further right in the middle of the Air Conditioner belay ledge? Does the 135 ft include getting to the start or does it go up 135 ft from there?

Good to see you posting, how's life treating you?
By phil broscovak
May 1, 2009

The 135 feet is from the ground to the anchor. It includes the first half of the approach route. Fine Whine goes straight (5 bolts) up the overhanging wall above the ledge that connects AC and LH.
By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Sep 15, 2011

Awesome climb! Definitely one to get the pucker going. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt making a delicate transition from left to right to gain a small finger crack using a crimper and an awkward sloper. I haven't led this, but if you have a rope gun in your group, I recommend going for it.