There are many good finger cracks around the Royal Arches area. This is one of them: In a right facing corner is a clean, straight in, thin finger tip crack. Climb this crack with good quality granite 90 ft. to a dirty/bushy ledge. The quality quickly deteriorates just before reaching the ledge at the top. Like many of the other cracks in the area, this pitch is good for climbers just breaking into the grade.
This climb is left of the start to the Royal Arches and right of Peruvian Flake.
Rack up with thin pro to 2". Rappel from slings around bushes.
|By Kaleem Khwaja|
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The lower half is excellent, but I'd recommend lowering off the bush half way up, as the upper half of the crack is buried in leaves, too full of moss to protect easily, and full of biting red ants. 3 stars for the bottom, a bomb for the top, we'll call it 2 stars overall.
For climbers just breaking into the grade, I recommend doubles of blue and green Aliens to keep from decking in the thin lower section.