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Routes in Sunset Wall
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AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 781 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
This is a pretty good climb with some off-balance climbing and cruxes. The climb continuously leans to the right and many of the holds are off-angle.
Climb up a few feet to reach the bottom and left of 2 parallel cracks, place gear and make a few awkward moves up to clip the first of 2 pins. Move out and right on balancy moves and clip a second pin (crux) and continue to the top on more trad gear.
To descend, go back North on the ledge for 10 meters to a rap tree with a sling and a locking biner anchor and rap 65' to the ground.
This is a pretty good climb with some off-balance climbing and cruxes. The climb continuously leans to the right and many of the holds are off-angle.
Climb up a few feet to reach the bottom and left of 2 parallel cracks, place gear and make a few awkward moves up to clip the first of 2 pins. Move out and right on balancy moves and clip a second pin (crux) and continue to the top on more trad gear.
To descend, go back North on the ledge for 10 meters to a rap tree with a sling and a locking biner anchor and rap 65' to the ground.
Location
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I.?'
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