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Neptune
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 
Arc Of A Diver T 
Clip Tide S 
Cream of Belay T 
Endless Edge T 
Finding Guinness T 
Finding Nemo T 
Free Fall T 
Jaws T 
Jimmy Dean T 
Land Shark T 
Layback 'n Cruz T 
Ma'adim T 
Muscle Shoals S 
Naranja T 
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Prime Rib of RURP T 
Rapture of the Steep T 
Reef Stricken S 
Salty Dogs T 
Scimitar T 
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 
Shanadoo T 
Shanashee T 
Stop Making Sense  T 
Swept Away T 
Tide Me Over T 
Unfathomable T 
Visceral Pull T 
Warm and Free T 
Where Eaglets Dare T 

Finding Guinness 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JSt, EFR, Clay Mansfield,'13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 21, 2013

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Finding Guinness. One of my favorite photos ever!

Description 

1)Fun moves into and up a capped corner lead to moderate face climbing past two bolts to a right facing corner. Another bolt marks the start of hard moves to the roof and a cool traverse out the right side. If you are doing just the first pitch clip shoulder lengths and lower. If you do the second pitch, plug a green or yellow for the belay and back it up by clipping the anchor bolts. If you just clip the anchors you will have an uncomfortable hanging belay. 2)Hard move left off of the anchor leads to moderate moves up to a big knob. From there work up and right to a bolt. A few more moves lead to a low angle ramp and belay on gear. Work up and left to finish on Dragon Book go right up Where Eaglets Dare. You can also 3rd class down the ramp and do another climb. The pretty block formed crack above the third bolt on the first pitch is wisely avoided as you will see if you lower off the first pitch anchors.


Location 

Just left of Where Eaglets Dare. A single bolt in a corner mark the start. An old shrub blocks access to the start of the corner.


Protection 

Bolts, singles to yellow Camalot.



Photos of Finding Guinness Slideshow Add Photo
Jimbo on the FA.  Somewhere below Guinness was injuring her ankle and would not appear when it was time to leave.  An overnight stay for the dog and Geir who went to look for her at 10 p.m.  We found her the next day and packed her out.
Jimbo on the FA. Somewhere below Guinness was inj...
Jim in the crux section.
BETA PHOTO: Jim in the crux section.
Comments on Finding Guinness Add Comment
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Sep 25, 2013

Looks awesome! Can't wait to give it a go!