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Final Gesture 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: P Ross, A Greene
Page Views: 2,017
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

Though a little dirty at times (mostly lichen), this route deserves attention. Compared to fighting the crowds on upper Refuse (5.5), climbing this route is a no-brainer, as long as you are solid in the grade.

After climbing half of the 2nd pitch of Upper Refuse, break left heading up towards an obvious detached block at the top of the cliff. Climb to a fixed pin (you can back it up with a nut), then follow the lichen covered low angle face up and left (can feel a bit spicy) to a crack that will bring you to the block.

Layback then mantel the block (or hump your way over it--that's how the route gets its name) and step left and to the cliff top. Belay from trees.

Location 

Break right halfway up Upper Refuse (5.5).

Protection 

Fixed pin and trad gear. Protects well with a standard rack to wide hand or fist size.


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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jan 8, 2010

Sorry....named as I was leaving NH for a season in Minnesota.
By losbill
Jan 10, 2010

Paul/Lee --- Where is the start to FG in relation to the point where Black Lung joins Upper Refuse? Thanks
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 10, 2010

after those 2 routes join climb upper refuse for about 30-40 feet to the spot where you start heading up to the tree ledge belay, instead break left and trend up and left toward the obvious block... it is a little tricky to find the spot which is one reason why this fun moderate sees so little traffic...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 10, 2010

haha sorry paul i was always told that the mantel was the gesture :) funny how your history can get changed... it is good to have you on the sight to give us some history on the amazing climbs you put up!
By losbill
Jan 10, 2010

Lee --- Thanks. Twice in the past I have looked left as I approached the tree ledge and not been sure where the line was. Based on your comment, it appears the last time I was actually at the start but felt I was too far up the ramp. I will give it a go next time I'm up there.
By apross
May 5, 2010

A good one to link with Black Lung.
By Anna C.
From: VT
Aug 7, 2010

For a "5.8 Awkward" outing, do Funhouse Left to Black Lung to this. The final, um, "mantle" is so awesome ... can't believe this doesn't get climbed more!!
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 13, 2012

Went back to lead this today after following it years ago. I really enjoy this pitch. A little balancy stepping away from Upper Refuse initially, but REALLY fun! Will definitely head out this to avoid traffic in the future. :D

Bombardment > Black Lung > Final Gesture = 5.8Fun!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 22, 2012

This is one of those unheralded Cathedral routes that's dead-obvious and obscure at the same time. I mean, it's right there, but it hardly ever gets done. Fifteen feet above the chimney/groove on Upper Refuse, step left on the obvious foot-ledge, then left again onto the face and up a few feet to a tiny right facing corner (pin, can be backed up), then make the devious step left (mental crux) to the base of obvious layback crack. If there is a crowd on Refuse, try not to belly-flop onto the block on the final move--very embarassing.
By Jason Gates
Oct 6, 2014

Does anyone know what the blonde, left trending corner tucked further above Upper Refuse, beyond the left exit for Final Gesture, starting approximately where the tree belay is? Someone I ran into said this was FG but I checked the Jerry book and it was not listed. It seems 5.8 or 5.9 and has a at least one visible LA in the middle. Looks appealing.