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 ADVANCED
Torture Chamber
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack in Groove T,TR 
Cracky Face TR 
Dos Gorditos T,TR 
Final Finger TR 
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 
Left of Roof -- Three Variations 
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 
Roofus, The T,S,TR 
S-Crack TR 
Sagas 50 T,TR 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
Straight Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 
Torture Chamber Traverse 
Tree Roof TR 
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 
West Crack TR 
West Flake TR 
WTF T 

Final Finger 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Torture Chamber lower routes II.

Description 

This is yet another great crack that is to the immediate left of Cracky Face. The three climb's in this immediate area (S Crack, Cracky Face, and, Final Finger are excellent climbs.


Protection 

Cams and webbing are good for top roping this climb.



Photos of Final Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Final Finger is the nice fingers/thin crack on the left in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: Final Finger is the nice fingers/thin crack on the...
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By ac
Jul 6, 2004

Jimn, do you realize you rated the quality of this route a "bomb" which means 0 stars, putrid, ugly rock, etc? But your written description of the route says "excellent". You may be accidentally using the "bomb" when you didn't intend to.

By Umph!
Mar 19, 2007

I've been taking some classes at CSU, so have become somewhat intimate with the area. In the picture of Cracky Face, the crack to the climbers left (Final Finger) is seen. If this is Final Finger then it may be 5.9+, but certainly isn't 5.10d. . . nor is Cracky Face 10c.
That said, I do believe that the crux start for S-Crack is 10c or so.

Very short but fun stuff (all three) - however, the ratings sure seem to be off.

By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Mar 21, 2007

I did not rate these climbs as I thought they felt to me, I rated them in accordance to Bob Horan's Colorado Front Range Bouldering Volume 1. I would agree with the ratings seeming soft minus S-Crack. The ratings were as follows.

S-Crack - 5.10+c/d
Cracky Face - 5.10+c/d
Final Finger - B1- (the equivalent of V2 or 5.11a/b)

By Umph!
Mar 21, 2007

Hey, thanks for the info Jimn. It's hard to believe that Final Finger is rated 11-. But, There have been many Horan climbs that I couldn't (and can't!) do. I guess I was just having a stellar day (it was probably the 'roids/crank/viagara mixture I was experimenting with). I'll try them again sober. . . .
I tried that roof-route at Duncans and it 'bout kicked my ass. . . it's supposedly 10a, though I would argue 10+ - maybe I was sober that day.

By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Mar 21, 2007

I think that the general consensus is that most of the Torture Chamber is a clusterbomb as far as ratings go and I'm not sure where it started or came from or if I am even on the right climbs, I think I was? According to the guide books I've used I thought I was but I agree that those ratings are not just a little off they are whole grades off, what am I gonna do? Go climbing up Boulder Canyon on Saturday for some multi-pitch trad routes, Hopefully I am on the right ones and if not I hope I have fun.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
May 2, 2014

This route is located further down-ridge from Nemesis Tower.