2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
On the South-West face of Castle rock, slightly more West than South, there is a wall that forms a slight amphitheater. The Buttress holding Skunk Crack, Comeback Crack, and Curving Crack forms the left-hand margin, and the famous old Aid Roof (now freed) form the right-hand margin.
The back left corner of this amphitheater is a huge dihedral with an overhanging wide crack route called Bailey's Overhang (5.8). Just to the right of Bailey's Overhang, perhaps some 30 feet is The Final Exam. Coffin Crack lies just to the right of The Final Exam.
To climb The Final Exam, climb up and left on a flake-like feature to just below a thin crack through a bulge, not far from the ground. Climb up through the bulge on reasonable pro, and then up the crack system until it begins to run out. At that point step right to another crack, and after a short distance back left to a multiple cracks system, which has reappeared. These cracks will take you to the base of an obvious roof. At the roof you may traverse left to finish on Bailey's Overhang, right to finish on Coffin Crack, or best of all, shoot straight up through the (sandbagged) Pass Fail Option (5.11a???) to get above the roof.
Climb any of the finishes to reach a ledge up and left of the center of the roof and belay.
From there a set of raps, or downclimbing to the raps above Polyester Leisure Suit will get you back to the ground.
A set of brass nuts + a standard set of nuts and cams to 2.5" or larger, depending on the finish.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Jun 25, 2008 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
If you are expecting Boulder Canyon 5.11a, think again. This is trad 5.11a rating all the way. It felt like 5.11 moves to me....especially if we were talking onsight grading. Having said that - after working the moves, it really was several 5.10 moves to one burly move and then you're done. Felt more like a sequency boulder problem, because once you gain the slab it is so much easier.
There is a fixed nut in place right at the crux presently.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Nov 25, 2008
I agree with Paul, this route handed me my ass in a waffle cone. I thought I was strong until....
Maybe smaller fingers help. I got a really good left ring finger knuckle in at the crux that let me fire up high to the next clings and jug. But it took me 2 tries to find it- first try just bloodied me.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 13, 2010 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead.
If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way.
To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped the rope into the rap station and put a few pieces on the traverse before I went over there, fyi.
It felt way easier now, but still feels solid 5.11 to me. :) Especially if you are going to onsight this thing!
I did this climb yesterday. I placed a blue TCU, a gray TCU, and a small nut, I think a BD size 3 nut. The gray TCU and the BD size 3 nut go right next to each other in the small parallel crack where the hard climbing starts. If you place them right, they are bomber. It felt hard for the grade!