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Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat 
Atlas Shrugged 
Bailey's Overhang 
Beetle Bailey 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) 
Big Splash, The 
Black Crack, The 
Boot Lead 
By Gully 
Cadaver Crack 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The 
Circadian Rhythms 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge 
Coffin Crack 
Comeback Crack 
Country Club Crack 
Crank It (aka Slabio) 
Curving Crack 
Cussin' Crack 
Cussing Fingers Variant 
Deadline 
Deersquatch 
Direct Start 
Dropout Option 
E-Z Action 
Englishman's Home 
Final Exam 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The 
Gluten Free 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot 
Jackson's Wall 
Jackson's Wall Direct 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone 
Nobody's Home 
One 
Pass Fail Option 
Polyester Leisure Suit 
Queen is Dead, The 
Rebellion 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The 
Stingay 
Storming the Castle 
Subterranean Homesick Blues 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past 
Tongo 
Tourist Extravagance 
Trainspotting 
Water World 
West Face 
West Face, Direct Start 

Final Exam 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Royal Robbins & Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 2,227
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2002
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Tony Bubb on Final Exam, jutt below the Pass/Fail ...

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Description 

On the South-West face of Castle rock, slightly more West than South, there is a wall that forms a slight amphitheater. The Buttress holding Skunk Crack, Comeback Crack, and Curving Crack forms the left-hand margin, and the famous old Aid Roof (now freed) form the right-hand margin.

The back left corner of this amphitheater is a huge dihedral with an overhanging wide crack route called Bailey's Overhang (5.8). Just to the right of Bailey's Overhang, perhaps some 30 feet is The Final Exam. Coffin Crack lies just to the right of The Final Exam.

To climb The Final Exam, climb up and left on a flake-like feature to just below a thin crack through a bulge, not far from the ground. Climb up through the bulge on reasonable pro, and then up the crack system until it begins to run out. At that point step right to another crack, and after a short distance back left to a multiple cracks system, which has reappeared. These cracks will take you to the base of an obvious roof. At the roof you may traverse left to finish on Bailey's Overhang, right to finish on Coffin Crack, or best of all, shoot straight up through the (sandbagged) Pass Fail Option (5.11a???) to get above the roof.

Climb any of the finishes to reach a ledge up and left of the center of the roof and belay.

From there a set of raps, or downclimbing to the raps above Polyester Leisure Suit will get you back to the ground.


Protection 

A set of brass nuts + a standard set of nuts and cams to 2.5" or larger, depending on the finish.

If finishing on Pass/Fail Option (5.11a) take a set of cams 1.5" to 3" for that. If finishing on Coffin Crack (5.10) or Bailey's Overhang (5.8), take pro to 4".



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Rich above the first section of Final Exam.
Rich above the first section of Final Exam.
Final Exam.
Final Exam.
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By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

If you are expecting Boulder Canyon 5.11a, think again. This is trad 5.11a rating all the way. It felt like 5.11 moves to me....especially if we were talking onsight grading. Having said that - after working the moves, it really was several 5.10 moves to one burly move and then you're done. Felt more like a sequency boulder problem, because once you gain the slab it is so much easier.

There is a fixed nut in place right at the crux presently.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Nov 25, 2008

I agree with Paul, this route handed me my ass in a waffle cone. I thought I was strong until....

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009

Maybe smaller fingers help. I got a really good left ring finger knuckle in at the crux that let me fire up high to the next clings and jug. But it took me 2 tries to find it- first try just bloodied me.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead.

If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way.

To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped the rope into the rap station and put a few pieces on the traverse before I went over there, fyi.

It felt way easier now, but still feels solid 5.11 to me. :) Especially if you are going to onsight this thing!

By nelissam
Jun 30, 2010

I did this climb yesterday. I placed a blue TCU, a gray TCU, and a small nut, I think a BD size 3 nut. The gray TCU and the BD size 3 nut go right next to each other in the small parallel crack where the hard climbing starts. If you place them right, they are bomber. It felt hard for the grade!

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 13, 2012

Soloed this on sight, 25 years ago. Funny thing is, the few occasions times since then Iíve tried it on toprope, Iíve never been able to get up it at all...sigh.....

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I thought this climb was pretty good. It was very difficult for me to not do the crux move dynamically. Good route, brief but burly crux. Well protected with small cams.