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Finagle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield, Shannon Stegg - 1985. What a team!
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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The climb starts on the far right of the roof. Ha...

Description 

Kinda silly but kinda cool, Finagle is a guilty pleasure, like 'Slow Ride'.

Yard along the lip of the big roof on jugs until you can pull up and get a stance. Climb a short crack until it fades, and then step left to the arete across a scoop. Finish up in excellent position on the arete to a ledge with a little pine and some new ringbolts, or cruise to the top to milk it a while longer. Bitchen!


Location 

Look for a big, low roof left of a perfect orange corner, with a bent pine at the start.


Protection 

Smaller. Long runners.



Photos of Finagle Slideshow Add Photo
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Comments on Finagle Add Comment
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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 5, 2007

The moves at the bottom are great. The route goes downhill from there...

By Greg Kuchyt
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you don't step left to the arete and instead follow the crack system, you get a very interesting (thin) climb. I was told this is the "direct" variation and goes at 5.9+-5.10.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide.