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Fin Du Monde 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Chris Lesher & Pat Thompson, June 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 888
Submitted By: Rick Thompson on Jan 1, 2002
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Chris hiking it...a la Fritz.

Description 

In English: End of the World. An exceptional abbey style ale of high potency and uncommon smoothness, which not surprisingly are also characteristics of this route. A couple puzzling cruxes complement the route's excellent stone and the fine position of the crux.

Begin from the ledge ten feet right of "Monastic Groove" and follow the line of clips up the clean face to a blunt arÍte with a bulge. Move left at the ledge to shared anchors with "Monastic Groove".


Protection 

8 clips.



Photos of Fin Du Monde Slideshow Add Photo
The Beer.
The Beer.
Kristin Knudson Flashing Fin Du Monde.  Sandbagged her by saying it was a hard 5.7 after I climbed it.  Oops.
Kristin Knudson Flashing Fin Du Monde. Sandbagged...
Comments on Fin Du Monde Add Comment
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By bone
Oct 27, 2003

Anyone have any information on the route directly to the right of Monastic Groove that finishes on the same anchors (and no, I'm not talking about the 5.7 Crystal Staircase).

Can't find it in any of the guide books...looks to be new?

[Eds. This is Fin du Monde, 10a?]

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 7, 2004

We wanted to do Monastic Groove, and we asked some other climbers in the area where the start was, and they pointed to the start of this climb. My partner was sandbagged into leading this and we both came away very disheartened on how hard the 5.8s were at Monastery. After coming home and looking at the web guide, it was evident that we did this climb. Made my partner feel good since it was his 1st 10a lead of the season. On this climb - feet are the key since the holds (small pebble pinch and some squeeze) are not always obvious. Crux was above 1 bolt and easier crux was on the bulge.

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

I haven't done this route yet, but it's named after one of my most favorite beers!
I will have to do it!

By Stacy Bender
Jun 17, 2008

I was right up to the crux bulge when the light came on and I realized I was not on Monastic Groove. Moving through the crux was really cool, with great crystals on what felt like vertical wall.

By Dan White
From: Western CO
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The Estes Park Valley guidebook I have is dated, and I led this thinking I was on Monastic Groove. I was past the 3rd bolt before I could look over and clearly see the Groove and its bolts to the left. It's still worth doing, but I thought the crux was around the second bolt, and it's fairly thin hands and feet on the crystal pebbles.

If you are looking at the same guidebook, don't be misled into thinking you're on Monastic Groove. There is a ledge to the left and higher than the ledge that you belay this route from.

By Gabe Anderson
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Very fun route with a crux low around the second bolt and a crux high just after the overlap. I felt this route was significantly easier than Wes Bound, also on the Vestry.