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> An. Cascade Area
> Cascade Falls - Left
Filthy Rich
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 0.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Cascade Falls - Left
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Crimson Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Filthy Rich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fish Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Press T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jug Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mud Shark T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett and Don Reid (June, '83) |
| Page Views: | 915 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
There is a tall pillar of rock at the left end of Cascade Falls. Golden Needles climbs the right side of this pillar, while Filthy Rich climbs the left side.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 90ft): Scramble up to the start of the double cracks in a corner. Jam your way up them to reach an offwidth. There are knobs out on the main face which allow you to stem and lieback and avoid getting in the offwidth. Above is a small ledge. Climb up the corner a bit further to reach a bomber nut placement. Move left (crux) to a flake which you lieback up a ways. Pass some slings around a chockstone and belay on the blocky ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 110 ft): Stand up on a block to reach below a roof. There's good gear here (2-3"). Undercling and lieback around the roof to the left to reach a dirty groove. Climb past a small tree and some bushes and head for another roof above. Climb over the roof using some juggy knobs. Then move left and up. The climbing here deteriorates into loose 4th class dirt. Belay at the tree with rap slings on it at the top of the pillar.
To descend, rappel Golden Needles with a 60 or 70m rope.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 90ft): Scramble up to the start of the double cracks in a corner. Jam your way up them to reach an offwidth. There are knobs out on the main face which allow you to stem and lieback and avoid getting in the offwidth. Above is a small ledge. Climb up the corner a bit further to reach a bomber nut placement. Move left (crux) to a flake which you lieback up a ways. Pass some slings around a chockstone and belay on the blocky ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 110 ft): Stand up on a block to reach below a roof. There's good gear here (2-3"). Undercling and lieback around the roof to the left to reach a dirty groove. Climb past a small tree and some bushes and head for another roof above. Climb over the roof using some juggy knobs. Then move left and up. The climbing here deteriorates into loose 4th class dirt. Belay at the tree with rap slings on it at the top of the pillar.
To descend, rappel Golden Needles with a 60 or 70m rope.
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