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Darek on the first pitch.
There are two starts.
1a. The original start. Climb the crack just left of Bold-Ville, passing a small corner and a small overhang. Go up another 15-20 feet or so, then diagonal left across the face aiming for a small tree. It is probably best to belay there. 5.7.
1b. The Nose variation. Climb the large inside corner further left; exit right, then up the dihedral to the same tree mentioned above. 5.6.
2. Move up and left a bit, then follow a shallow dihedral past a fixed pin to a decent stance under a large roof. At that point there is another fixed pin in a short slab to the right. Traverse right about 6-8 feet to good holds, then go past the overhang (crux). Twenty-five feet up and left there is a rappel anchor with two good angle pitons. 100 foot rappel.
This can be done (and often is) as a single pitch.
Take the trail from the right side of the Boxcar boulder. This deposits you near The Spring (P1), a large, well-chalked inside corner that usually has a small pool below it.
Standard 'Gunks rack.
Jul 1, 2011
I climbed The Nose/Fillipina. The initial Nose dihedral is a little tough for 5.6, and fun. The rest of the way up to the roof is a bit awkward. The final roof problem is awesome. I only saw one pin, on the face before the stance at the roof.
Jun 25, 2012
The Nose start makes a fantastic link up with Fillipina.
The Williams guide notes a worthy variation: Where the Nose jogs left, head right up the bulge, with a crack and a well-chalked chicken head, rather than the open book to the right. It's more direct and maybe 5.8 G (slightly height dependent). This should probably be done as a single pitch. Also, the rap is close with a 60 meter rope -- both ends of my rope were about 8 inches off the ground before my partner rappelled.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012
I climbed this route a few weeks ago. By mistake, I continued up and right on the first pitch to the comfortable ledge(just right of an uncomfortable fixed anchor) and below P2 of Bold-ville. We decided to make a traverse left, aiming for the piton below the P2 crux of Fillipina. The traverse had some chalk on it but ended up being much more difficult than expected. I can't find any info on this traverse in either of my guidebooks. Does anyone know if this is part of another route?
|By Dana Bartlett|
Apr 6, 2013
You might have done the crux of Lady's Lament.