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 ADVANCED
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
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48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Fillipina 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FFA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Darek on the first pitch.

Description 

There are two starts.

1a. The original start. Climb the crack just left of Bold-Ville, passing a small corner and a small overhang. Go up another 15-20 feet or so, then diagonal left across the face aiming for a small tree. It is probably best to belay there. 5.7.

1b. The Nose variation. Climb the large inside corner further left; exit right, then up the dihedral to the same tree mentioned above. 5.6.

2. Move up and left a bit, then follow a shallow dihedral past a fixed pin to a decent stance under a large roof. At that point there is another fixed pin in a short slab to the right. Traverse right about 6-8 feet to good holds, then go past the overhang (crux). Twenty-five feet up and left there is a rappel anchor with two good angle pitons. 100 foot rappel.

This can be done (and often is) as a single pitch.


Location 

Take the trail from the right side of the Boxcar boulder. This deposits you near The Spring (P1), a large, well-chalked inside corner that usually has a small pool below it.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


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By SethG
Jul 1, 2011

I climbed The Nose/Fillipina. The initial Nose dihedral is a little tough for 5.6, and fun. The rest of the way up to the roof is a bit awkward. The final roof problem is awesome. I only saw one pin, on the face before the stance at the roof.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 25, 2012

The Nose start makes a fantastic link up with Fillipina.

The Williams guide notes a worthy variation: Where the Nose jogs left, head right up the bulge, with a crack and a well-chalked chicken head, rather than the open book to the right. It's more direct and maybe 5.8 G (slightly height dependent). This should probably be done as a single pitch. Also, the rap is close with a 60 meter rope -- both ends of my rope were about 8 inches off the ground before my partner rappelled.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012

I climbed this route a few weeks ago. By mistake, I continued up and right on the first pitch to the comfortable ledge(just right of an uncomfortable fixed anchor) and below P2 of Bold-ville. We decided to make a traverse left, aiming for the piton below the P2 crux of Fillipina. The traverse had some chalk on it but ended up being much more difficult than expected. I can't find any info on this traverse in either of my guidebooks. Does anyone know if this is part of another route?
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 6, 2013

You might have done the crux of Lady's Lament.