Filling in gaps between .5, .75 and 1 C4s
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I searched the forums and this is what i found. |
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It's not exactly the answer you are looking for, but I use the WC red and gold to go in between the C1 and C2. I'd assume it would be the same on the lower sizes. It's additionally nice because it has a smaller head than the C4's while retaining a similar camming range. |
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thats whuddah my link cams are for |
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The orange and red mastercam are what I got to fill in my c4's. They seem perfectly in the middle of the BD sizes and I really like they way they feel. |
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There is no gap??? On one pitch at the Creek out of hundreds climbed, I did find that neither a 0.4 nor a 05 fit. Everywhere else it is a complete non-issue. Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing. |
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Mikecease wrote:There is no gap??? On one pitch at the Creek out of hundreds climbed, I did find that neither a 0.4 nor a 05 fit. Everywhere else it is a complete non-issue. Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.Besides the fact this has been covered quite a bit, myself and quite a few other climbers have found that a mixed rack is the way to go. There's been countless times that my WC or TCU's or anything that isn't a 4cam BD was what I reached for. I could, but wouldn't want to climb on a double rack of BD's. If not for camming range, head width alone. |
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Mikecease wrote:Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.This, coupled with the best climbing advice you can get: when in doubt, run it out. |
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Scott McMahon wrote:If not for camming range, head width alone.And weight, and flexibility, and...I see a repeat thread coming. |
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"whuddah my link cams are for" |
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I would stick with one brand...get #4/5/6 Metolius or Trango |
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There is no gap. |
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Never noticed the gap either. But to each their own. Purple alien is between .75 and 1 camalots. I got one for under $5 when REI stopped carrying Aliens. I'll sell it to you for $70 in good condition + s/h. |
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Gaps? Not really. |
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Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote: "whuddah my link cams are for" ;) I think those are Fixed pro everywhere...Ive used mine for the past 5 years in squamish, yosemite, skaha, canmore, etc ... All 4 sized have seen multiple whippers ... The purple probably 10+ None have ever gotten stuck despite being placed and cleaned by new trad climbers i take out have you owned and whipped on them yourself ? ;) |
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Thanks all. |
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If you're mostly climbing in the Gunks, don't bother with filling in the gaps between .5 and .75 and 1. Just get doubles of C4. I don't like large aliens (anything above yellow) unless it's granite, because the heads flop. |
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"FIXE? which one? Im not too familiar with Aliens at all"
Go with FIXE! They've LOWERED their prices on Aliens. fixehardware.com/shop/cch-a… |
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Mikecease wrote:Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.There is no versatility in this. Double camalots suck if your climbing hard trad. While the camalots will cover all size ranges, they are not in their sweet spots at certain sizes. Climbing routes that are steep or the rock is questionable/softer, having more caming is very important to saving your butt in a fall. I am going to want that red metolius in the meat than a tipped out .5, or a jammed .75. I prefer 0 metolius all the way to 5, with the occasional 8 metolius. I find red metolius is perfect for off-fingers and 8 for off-hands. The gap in the camalots is not as noticeable from .75-2, but it is still good to supplement your rack with another brand. Tricams are very similar to metolius sizes, so I often save weight and carry them instead of the larger metolius sizes. That just depends on the grade and steepness whether or not I will bring tricams versus metolius cams. Tricams often take longer to place so I avoid them more on steep terrain. I almost always carry c3's supplemented with 0-2 metolius, but aliens also work well to supplement c3's. The gap from .5 to .75 should be filled with red metolius. |
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Locker wrote:Go with FIXE! They've LOWERED their prices on Aliens.And still comparable retail price to the superior Totem basics (that you can often get for 20% off thru backcountrygear.com). Besides temporary availability issues, I see no good reason to buy FIXE. As for the "gap", if you must go all BD, X4s will often fit in places C4s won't, even in seemingly parallel cracks. I'm not a huge fan of mastercams: they tend to get stuck easily in the narrow side of the range, making them not so much of the "fill in the gap" type pieces. |
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The Totems ARE superior to the Fixes. But why get a single mastercam and a single alien? Why not just buy the Red mastercam? It's slightly smaller than the .75, and fills the "gap" between the .5 and .75 C4 nicely. |