Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Filling in gaps between .5, .75 and 1 C4s
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Roman G
From Brooklyn, NY
Oct 31, 2013
I searched the forums and this is what i found.

I am looking to fill in gaps between a .5 C4, .75 C4 and a 1 C4

Here is what i found:

Wild Country Friend 1.5 for filling in gap between .5 and .75 C4

A black Metolious AND #2 Wild Country Friend for filling in .75 and 1 C4

Is this still a good option? Or are there better that you like? Suggestions?

Thanks

Roman

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2013
Bocan
It's not exactly the answer you are looking for, but I use the WC red and gold to go in between the C1 and C2. I'd assume it would be the same on the lower sizes. It's additionally nice because it has a smaller head than the C4's while retaining a similar camming range.

The smaller stuff I use TCU's up to a red metolius. Same deal, smaller head, similar camming range.

That setup really compliments the C4's.

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Oct 31, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
Master Cams work great for filling in gaps between the smaller size BD C4s. I think red Metolius is a bit bigger than purple BD. You're right about the black Metolius. I have one for that reason as well. The WC Heliums are great for filling in the bigger sizes, for example, the purple (#3?) WC Helium goes great in between the #2 and #3 Camalots. I'm not sure about them in the smaller sizes because all my smaller cams are Master Cams, X4s, and C4s.

FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2013
thats whuddah my link cams are for

;)

FLAG
By ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Oct 31, 2013
ducking ropes at Copper
The orange and red mastercam are what I got to fill in my c4's. They seem perfectly in the middle of the BD sizes and I really like they way they feel.

FLAG
By Mikecease
Oct 31, 2013
There is no gap??? On one pitch at the Creek out of hundreds climbed, I did find that neither a 0.4 nor a 05 fit. Everywhere else it is a complete non-issue. Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2013
Bocan
Mikecease wrote:
There is no gap??? On one pitch at the Creek out of hundreds climbed, I did find that neither a 0.4 nor a 05 fit. Everywhere else it is a complete non-issue. Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.


Besides the fact this has been covered quite a bit, myself and quite a few other climbers have found that a mixed rack is the way to go. There's been countless times that my WC or TCU's or anything that isn't a 4cam BD was what I reached for. I could, but wouldn't want to climb on a double rack of BD's.

If not for camming range, head width alone.

FLAG
By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 31, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
This thread might help you out if you haven't already seen it

FLAG
 
By Tom Mulholland
From #1 Cheese Producing State!
Oct 31, 2013
Whiskey-a-Go-Go
Mikecease wrote:
Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.


This, coupled with the best climbing advice you can get: when in doubt, run it out.

FLAG
By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Oct 31, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
Scott McMahon wrote:
If not for camming range, head width alone.


And weight, and flexibility, and...I see a repeat thread coming.

FLAG
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Oct 31, 2013
blah
"whuddah my link cams are for"

;)

I think those are Fixed pro everywhere...

FLAG
By Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Oct 31, 2013
I would stick with one brand...get #4/5/6 Metolius or Trango
or idk the numbers for WC but definitely stick with one

Although I will throw this out...when I'm pumped/desperate I always grab for a BD

FLAG
By tradryan
Oct 31, 2013
Skis!
There is no gap.

Red alien to orange alien... now that's a gap.

FLAG
By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 31, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Never noticed the gap either. But to each their own. Purple alien is between .75 and 1 camalots. I got one for under $5 when REI stopped carrying Aliens. I'll sell it to you for $70 in good condition + s/h.

FLAG
By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Oct 31, 2013
tanuki
Gaps? Not really.

I have three or four sets (.5 to 3 in C4 sizes) of WC Tech Friends that I purchased for about $25 a piece with a free carabiner when they were being discontinued. I use them at IC and they work great. The WC Tech Friends and Helium Friends are solid well built gear... but I only use them If I use up all my C4s. I am just more used to the sizing on the C4s and like them better. I have only once found a placement that was between two C4s.

YMMV, but I would suggest sticking with one of the other unless you are building a massive desert rack.

FLAG
By bearbreeder
Oct 31, 2013
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
"whuddah my link cams are for" ;) I think those are Fixed pro everywhere...


Ive used mine for the past 5 years in squamish, yosemite, skaha, canmore, etc ...

All 4 sized have seen multiple whippers ... The purple probably 10+

None have ever gotten stuck despite being placed and cleaned by new trad climbers i take out

have you owned and whipped on them yourself ?

;)

FLAG
 
By Roman G
From Brooklyn, NY
Nov 1, 2013
Thanks all.

Since all of my cams are Camalots, C4s (doubles in smaller-mid range), C3s and X4s, I'm gonna get a master cam and an alien to fill in the gap that I found.

I've decided to get a Metolius Master Cam #5 - Black. To be used for gap between .75 C4 and #1 C4

Also would like to get an alien to fill the gap between .5 C4 and .75 C4 - Which Alien should I get?

and

CCH, FIXE? which one? Im not too familiar with Aliens at all. Or should I go with a Totem Basic Alien?

Anything I should keep an eye out when buying an Alien? I read something about dimples? If I come across a used alien, anything I should be on the look out for? Should I only be looking at certain models? Anything to worry about? I know some were recalled.


Will also be getting a yellow alien as its a very useful cam here in the Gunks.

Thanks guys

Roman

FLAG
By doligo
Nov 1, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
If you're mostly climbing in the Gunks, don't bother with filling in the gaps between .5 and .75 and 1. Just get doubles of C4. I don't like large aliens (anything above yellow) unless it's granite, because the heads flop.

FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 1, 2013
...
"FIXE? which one? Im not too familiar with Aliens at all"


Go with FIXE! They've LOWERED their prices on Aliens.

fixehardware.com/shop/cch-alie...

FLAG
By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Nov 1, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.
Mikecease wrote:
Just get two sets of camalots and go climbing.


There is no versatility in this. Double camalots suck if your climbing hard trad. While the camalots will cover all size ranges, they are not in their sweet spots at certain sizes. Climbing routes that are steep or the rock is questionable/softer, having more caming is very important to saving your butt in a fall. I am going to want that red metolius in the meat than a tipped out .5, or a jammed .75. I prefer 0 metolius all the way to 5, with the occasional 8 metolius. I find red metolius is perfect for off-fingers and 8 for off-hands. The gap in the camalots is not as noticeable from .75-2, but it is still good to supplement your rack with another brand. Tricams are very similar to metolius sizes, so I often save weight and carry them instead of the larger metolius sizes. That just depends on the grade and steepness whether or not I will bring tricams versus metolius cams. Tricams often take longer to place so I avoid them more on steep terrain. I almost always carry c3's supplemented with 0-2 metolius, but aliens also work well to supplement c3's. The gap from .5 to .75 should be filled with red metolius.

FLAG
By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Nov 1, 2013
Locker wrote:
Go with FIXE! They've LOWERED their prices on Aliens.

And still comparable retail price to the superior Totem basics (that you can often get for 20% off thru backcountrygear.com). Besides temporary availability issues, I see no good reason to buy FIXE.

As for the "gap", if you must go all BD, X4s will often fit in places C4s won't, even in seemingly parallel cracks. I'm not a huge fan of mastercams: they tend to get stuck easily in the narrow side of the range, making them not so much of the "fill in the gap" type pieces.

FLAG
By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Nov 1, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
The Totems ARE superior to the Fixes. But why get a single mastercam and a single alien? Why not just buy the Red mastercam? It's slightly smaller than the .75, and fills the "gap" between the .5 and .75 C4 nicely.

FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 1, 2013
...
fixehardware.com/shop/index.ph...

;-)

FLAG
By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Nov 1, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
I think Locker meant to post this.

;-)

FLAG
 
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 1, 2013
...
^^^

Wise guy!

LOL!

FLAG
By Brad M
Nov 1, 2013
Nut up and run it out. or buy hexes.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>