fighting the dreaded over pump

I am in x-ray school full-time monday through friday. We recently started gym climbing again over the last few months. I feel that I do a proper cardio warm up followed by a mellow warm up lead or three. Seems to me that the more time/days we spend in the gym, I get waaaay over pumped. It has gotten to the point where I get pumped on warm up routes well below my ability. As you would think your endurance would grow and you would get stronger but its the opposite. tonight, I climbed 3 routes. I have been climbing for many years and used to be able to climb for a few hours before the death pump kicked in..... We even got the armaid (which is Awesome) to stretch and relax my forearms.

Any thoughts out there?

Perhaps you're not resting enough between climbing days or not warming up enough. Warm up really slowly and see how you feel. I like to start warming up and stretching at home before going to the gym. Sean McColl says he warms up for an hour.

When I take extended time off from climbing I get back to max power pretty quickly but recovery, stamina, and endurance all come back slower.

Chris G. wrote:I am in x-ray school full-time monday through friday. We recently started gym climbing again over the last few months. I feel that I do a proper cardio warm up followed by a mellow warm up lead or three. Seems to me that the more time/days we spend in the gym, I get waaaay over pumped. It has gotten to the point where I get pumped on warm up routes well below my ability. As you would think your endurance would grow and you would get stronger but its the opposite. tonight, I climbed 3 routes. I have been climbing for many years and used to be able to climb for a few hours before the death pump kicked in..... We even got the armaid (which is Awesome) to stretch and relax my forearms. Any thoughts out there?

If you're getting pumped on a warm up, it's not a warm up. It doesn't matter if it's way below your "ability", a warm up should get the blood flowing, and you might feel a slight pump, but getting waaay over pumped would be called a "flash pump" and is exactly what a warm up is there to help you avoid.

It sounds like you just need to work on your endurance and to rest longer between climbing days. As you build endurance and your body compensates you can start to ramp up the volume, either in a single session, or by increasing the frequency of your sessions, or both. Right now you are just doing too much too frequently and so your body doesn't have time to recover.

"If you are getting pumped its not a warm up"

I find the opposite to be true. The times I have surprised myself with how much endurance I have, the variable has been a warm up that got me pumped not to an extreme point, but maybe 7/10 towards total failure. Then 20 minute break then send

Gym climbing is pumpier than outdoor usually because even easy routes are on overhangs and you can't rest on your feet.

Do lots more mileage on easier grades and it will quickly improve. The endurance muscles are easy to train.

And yes rest till your forearms aren't sore before the next session.

All good stuff everyone, thank you!! As for my warm ups, I usually spend 15 or so minutes on the elliptical to get a slight sweat on. After that I usually jump on a 5.8's and 5.9's to continue the warm up. Tonight I really focused on footwork and driving with my feet. Another thing is that we stayed only on vertical walls tonight. (they are usually way to busy in the evenings). I still got a slight feeling of pump in my forearm but nothing like before. Time to take a few steps back and relearn technique i think.

I normally do 2 climbs on strait vertical for every one overhung route in order to mix it up and keep the pump at bay. I also try do completely diffrent types of climbs so I don't use the exact same muscles. Sloper route, jugs, crimper route and then my favorite kind of route to keep the pump away is one that mostly just focuses on body positions, you know the ones in the corner that involves stemming

Eli Peterson wrote:I normally do 2 climbs on strait vertical for every one overhung route in order to mix it up and keep the pump at bay. I also try do completely diffrent types of climbs so I don't use the exact same muscles. Sloper route, jugs, crimper route and then my favorite kind of route to keep the pump away is one that mostly just focuses on body positions, you know the ones in the corner that involves stemming

Man that sounds like a great idea. Thanks! It is just to easy to hope on the overhung walls in the prime evening times

Focus on doing link-ups and downclimbing easier routes. ARC training if you are motivated. Also consider some easy hangboard sessions at the end of your climbing workout ( 5 sec on, 15 sec off for 5 reps of 3 hold positions with 3 minutes rest between sets is a good starting point). If you can build some strength then you are less likely to get pumped on big holds. Building base endurance helps your body catabolize waste products and increases blood flow.

Try climbing faster.

I try to follow the idea of breaking up route styles for roped climbing also, ideally I would do a dead vertical route after something pumpy and steep, but just changing hold style helps also.

I found that even after a bit of ARC training and slow warm ups I was seeming to get more of a pump than I ought to and my hands were just sore the next day after a 3hr session. I started training antagonists in my fingers (rubber bands work) and they were EXTREMELY weak. Once my antagonists were stronger and closer to balanced I found that I didn't pump as easily, my grip strength seemed to go up as well. Just something to think about if you have been climbing a lot consistently.

Look up mp user Aleks Sebastien and read thru his forum posts

Thanks for the replies

Hmm...I don't see the point in warming up on ellipticals. Building up a sweat is nice, but what really needs warming up are your forearms/pull muscles. I do often bike to the gym but honestly haven't noticed a difference in warmups vs driving. I would personally skip the non-climbing and maybe cut a few grades for your warmup. You especially want to avoid warming up on anything severely overhanging or sustained...even a 5.9 can flash pump you.

go to x-ray school part time

Eric Chabot wrote:Look up mp user Aleks Sebastien and read thru his forum posts

Actually this is the type of person to talk to, the cure for the pump is no secret. You need to improve your vascularity. Lifting weights is an easy way to do this. High reps, low weight. Once you've developed those bulging veins in your forearms you'll be good to go.

From my experience, Ted is right on.

If you are strong and in condition you just have to climb through the pump until you get your 2nd wind.

Chris G. wrote:We recently started gym climbing again over the last few months. I feel that I do a proper cardio warm up followed by a mellow warm up lead or three. Seems to me that the more time/days we spend in the gym, I get waaaay over pumped. It has gotten to the point where I get pumped on warm up routes well below my ability.

I remember when reading "One Move Too Many," a book on climbing anatomy and injuries by Thomas Hochholzer and Volket Schoeffl about a forearm overuse syndrome common among sport climbers where one's forearm tendons and muscles outgrow their normal size, compress the carpal tunnel, and prevent blood flow and removal of lactic acid, resulting in an early and long-lasting pump.

Found the quote: Called "Functional Compartment Syndrome of the
Forearm Flexor Muscles...An especially strong indicator is if the pumped sensation comes quickly during the work out and at climbing levels way below where your peak has recently been."

It might be worth looking into, especially if it was caused by a recent change in your climbing routine, like starting to gym climb again?

Credentials: I'm no doctor.

Daniel Kaye wrote: I remember when reading "One Move Too Many," a book on climbing anatomy and injuries by Thomas Hochholzer and Volket Schoeffl about a forearm overuse syndrome common among sport climbers where one's forearm tendons and muscles outgrow their normal size, compress the carpal tunnel, and prevent blood flow and removal of lactic acid, resulting in an early and long-lasting pump. Found the quote: Called "Functional Compartment Syndrome of the Forearm Flexor Muscles...An especially strong indicator is if the pumped sensation comes quickly during the work out and at climbing levels way below where your peak has recently been." It might be worth looking into, especially if it was caused by a recent change in your climbing routine, like starting to gym climb again? Credentials: I'm no doctor.

Several month ago I developed a pretty much constant feeling of tightness/slight pump in my right forearm. Individually the hand is not any weaker, and maybe even stronger than the left. It does not interfere with my workouts in any way.
I try use the armaid for both of them and at times try to rest for a few days, but the feeling comes back quick. I did bouldering and a hangboard workout yesterday. Still have the feeling of slight pump over 24 hours after the workout..