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Routes in Dear John Buttress
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Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Crazed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rehab T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stone Cold Power T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stony Highway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Mike Carville & Dave Hatchett, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 3,186 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Flared crack that is hard at the start and hard at the top where it is finger sized and easy in the middle where it is hands gets you to an intermediate anchor at about 35'. Continue straight up the face on patina jugs linked by flared seams and some very height dependent moves. Turn the roof at a flared painful hand jam and continue up the face above.
-Beautiful face and line, cool movement, some distance between bolts all make this a great route.
-The awkwardness of the roof and the hand jam keep it from being absolutely classic.
-Beautiful face and line, cool movement, some distance between bolts all make this a great route.
-The awkwardness of the roof and the hand jam keep it from being absolutely classic.
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