|Dear John Buttress
Flared crack that is hard at the start and hard at the top where it is finger sized and easy in the middle where it is hands gets you to an intermediate anchor at about 35'. Continue straight up the face on patina jugs linked by flared seams and some very height dependent moves. Turn the roof at a flared painful hand jam and continue up the face above.
-Beautiful face and line, cool movement, some distance between bolts all make this a great route.
-The awkwardness of the roof and the hand jam keep it from being absolutely classic.
Starts about 12' right of the God of Thunder corner behind a tall skinny tree.
Cams to hand size for the start to an anchor then 4 bolts and anchors.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 5, 2010
You can lead up to the chains at the 40' mark and set up a top-rope if you are not inclined to lead the rest of the wall. The first "pitch" is excellent for running laps and building endurance on hard finger cracks.
An exciting and well-protected lead in its own right.
|By Jonathan Guy|
From: Bay Area, CA
Aug 2, 2012
Great description. Thanks!