Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Long Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chewy S 
Fifty Fifty S 
For What? S 
Ingrate S 
Jesus is My License Plate S 
Maximum Overdrive S 
Minimum Overdrive S 
No Way, Jose' S 
On the Porch S 
Personal Pronoun S 
Ragged Reaction S 
Rocky Top Hilton S 
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 
Six Dollars S 
Spice S 
Stone Cold Dixie S 
Under the Milky Way S 
World at War S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fifty Fifty 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rudaw Janowic, 2009
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
roof crux

Description 

Start by climbing up the arete, making some bouldery moves to gain the ledge under an overhang. At the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and figure out which way to go to gain the 4th bolt (crux). From here, the climb eases up as you proceed over a clean face making use of very positive holds. This is a hard onsight. Figuring out whether to go right or left at the crux is not obvious. This route could benefit from more traffic to clean it up a bit.


Location 

This route is located on the arete just to the right of the start of Maximum Overdrive, 5.11c and Cave Woman, 5.10d.


Protection 

7 bolts, shuts.



Comments on Fifty Fifty Add Comment
Show which comments
By jedi-diah
Sep 17, 2012

I broke a hold at the top of this one for a painful whipper. Maybe I just royally screwed up the beta, but I found it to be pretty painful/unfun--it did not flow easily for me.

Also, it felt hard--harder than maximum overdrive next door.

By Sam Stephens
Apr 13, 2014

Won't do this one ever again... Never should have been bolted.