Fifi's Frozen Fingers
||Ice, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: ||WI4- [details]|
|FA: ||Jan 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Jan - Feb|
|Page Views: ||669|
|Submitted By: ||Jay Harrison on Jan 24, 2010|
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Leading Fifi's Frozen Finger
Steep but not quite vertical climbing for 50'. There is no real crux, it's just a long ride on near-vertical terrain.
I've looked at this for over a decade; way back when even took a shot at it with Travis K., but we backed off.
The warm temps today made for bomber sticks, lending the bravado to give it another go. I figure with the impending thaw, the whole thing is going to come down and I might have to wait another year to get at it.
This is a fun pitch, reminiscent of Crystal Ice Tower.
There are good TR options on either side of the fat "finger" of ice. The left is thin ice to the top; the right involves a tricky drytool sequence to access enough ice for verglas tapping the rest of the ride. In good years, this all gets fat enough to climb as pure ice.
Here's the problem. Either climb the Waterfall Wall to the top of the penultimate pitch, then walk climber's left and descend a ramp to the base of this route,
Walk the BAW path across the BAW and continue along as it passes over the top of the Slanting Cracks Wall, rolling along mostly downward to an easy slide down to the ramp that runs along the base of the route.
Descent: either walk back (climber's) left from the top along the BAW path or rappel from trees and wander back to the base of the Waterfall.
13 - 19cm screws
BETA PHOTO: Tom Lane at the base of Fifi's Frozen Fingers. Thi...
Leading Fifi's Frozen Finger.